David picked me up at around 5:38, it was still dark but a pleasant Monday morning. We headed down to the Prom for his longest run to date and a recce of the 44 km course. The conversation was so engaging, that I hardly noticed the transition between night and day – the sun was already rising, fog in some places… We stopped for a photo of the boulder that looks like a goat’s head somewhere between Whisky Bay and Squeaky Beach. Told David it will be much nicer in the afternoon sun, we agreed we’ll stop on the way back, too.
On Sealers Tk
After we pulled into the Visitor Centre car park, toilet, a few bites, gear up and got started. In spite of the cloudy sky the views from the road heading up to Telegraph Saddle car park were really nice. We stopped to take a few shots, got out of the way of the passing cars and were soon up at the parking. David took a few photos at the lookout (someone has put some bushes there since I’ve been here 😃), then we headed down Sealers Tk.
We agreed on taking it easy – it takes as long as it takes. David’s reaction to the trails at the Prom was exactly how I’d imagine it to be for every trail runner who hasn’t been there before. At Windy Saddle we had a quick chat with two girls, then I told David to go ahead and enjoy this part, fly down on it if he wishes – it’s my favourite track, that’s what I would do, too. Well, he certainly didn’t have the breaks on, I could hardly keep up with him. We bumped into some hikers a few times, stopped to take a few photos in a few nice spots (like that stone that marks a corner, haha!!) and soon reached the board walk. That was again a portion that we both enjoyed. By this time it was nice and sunny and humid.
I was really excited to see (and capture) David’s face when he gets the first glimpse of Sealers Cove, so I headed ahead and took a few shots – I think I got it! We talked about what it is like when it’s high tide here and the creek can be up to waist when crossing. There were people walking closer to the water, in the quite compact sand. We took our shoes off to cross the less than knee deep water, then met Louise, a lady older than us, putting her hiking shoes on. We asked her where is she heading. She was from Fish Creek and decided to hike the Prom; she was amazed by us doing that loop in one day, then she took off saying, no doubt, we’ll catch up with her at some point.
We went through the camping ground, stopping to take a photo of a curious wallaby, then headed up the hill, chatting away and David being amazed by the beautiful, rolling trail, the everchanging vegetation and the stunning views.
This is the shot Louise took
We caught up with Louise on the boulder overlooking Sealers Cove. Asked her if she wanted a photo. First she said no, but then gave me her phone to take a shot. She asked if we wanted a photo, as well so we lined up for the picture 😊. Louise still couldn’t get over us doing all this distance in such a short time, then she asked how old we were – told her I was 50 and David said he’s 43. She looked very impressed and wished us all the best as we took off.
We soon got to Refuge Cove Nth, where there were a few boats in the water. We even wondered if one of them was picking a few persons up, then a trail runner looking guy started to walk towards us. We asked him where is he going and where is he coming from, then at the introductions found out that he is Tom, and David and Tom went to the same school… it goes to show how small this world is! Tom ran into a branch earlier and cut the skin on his head open. David looked at it and told him there is nothing we could do about it, just keep it covered. We said good bye, then headed in opposite directions.
Refuge Cove
Refuge Cove was next and boy, it didn’t disappoint! David walked onto the beach to take some pictures while I went to the toilet (it was surprisingly clean), then we headed towards the camping ground. I showed him the tap, filled our soft flasks with water then headed back to the track.
A solo hiker we’ve seen earlier with a big pack, and hiking quite fast was already setting up his tent. Pretty much everything he was wearing and carrying was green and he was very efficient. You can tell it was school holiday, there were families with children and some youngsters in most camping grounds.
On the boulder overlooking Refuge Cove
As we passed the sign that said “Kersops Peak 2.6 km” we agreed to go up to Kersops Peak for a peek. This sounded so funny. I could sense that David was itching to go a bit faster. Told him to go ahead and enjoy it, then watched him hop away with such an ease as I only saw Chris Roberts and Dan Beard go up one of the Dandenongs hills during the night run Gabor organised a while ago. It was getting warmer and I felt a bit sluggish. Took a quick spot check on my going so far: food was ok, I was also drinking the water with electrolytes, the hip was ok, didn’t hurt. Then it must be one of these: no training, sleep deprivation, the food and drinks I’ve been carrying on my bum since Easter or I didn’t totally recover from Razorback. I wasn’t looking for excuses, but wanted to know the WHY.
We ran together chatting for a little while, then told David to go ahead and have fun. We ended up doing this a few times: running together, him going ahead then waiting for me patiently. I really admire this about him. On the downhills we stepped on it and it was a lot of fun flying through the ferns and hopping over roots and rocks. I don’t think I ever ran this fast on these downhills when I was solo or even during one of the races.
Before the Kersops Peak Junction
At the Kersops Peak junction we stopped and looked around amazed by the views. Took a few pictures, then headed up to the Kersops Peak summit for more. The track going up there is a tad steep and rooty and rocky with sudden switchbacks in some spots but if one stops every now and then to check the views, it’s an incredible sight.
We took a few shots on the top, pointed out the Lighthouse (seemed so far, far away), Waterloo Bay, Waterloo Bay Nth with its crystal clear water… we had a date (each), then headed down, talking about the Sunset Tk run at Lysty we both did a while ago.
The track is steep, tricky and very technical down to Waterloo Bay Nth, but before reaching the beach there is a spot where one is presented with some of the most brilliant colours nature can produce. It’s only a small patch of the turquoise water powerfully contrasting the dark greens and browns of the trees. David shot ahead on the fun-run downhill, so I was hoping he’ll notice it. And he sure did. Furthermore, as I was turning a corner, I’ve realised he is sitting off the track waiting for me with the phone ready. He managed to take one of the best shots I have on these trails, with the previous beach as background.
There was a family scattered on Waterloo Nth beach, we said hello and kept going while admiring the rusty rocks ahead, then we started climbing towards the “Decision Rock”. It’s a big boulder where hikers usually sit down for a rest and marvel at the sight of Waterloo Bay. Told the story about the time we planned to do the 68 km with Julie and the weather forecast looked less than promising, so we had to make a decision here.
Little Waterloo Bay was next with its squeaky white sand and brownish creek. There were a few youngsters on the beach. We said hello, then kept on going towards the camp ground. I was hoping there is water flowing here. Campers were minding their business while we filled up our storages with the brownish water. I took some big gulps of water here, which proved to be a bad move. Need to slap myself every time I even THINK of doing this in the future!
As we were walking through the camp ground I told David about the times when after rain the sites are all under water – they are ponds. Literally. I also pointed out the sign that says something like “Lighthouse Tk 6.3 km”.
Mt Boulder
From here we pretty much rolled down to Waterloo Bay, hopping over the big rocks to get to the beach. That blindingly white sand and the constantly inviting water, that changes its colours with the movement of the clouds and brightness of the sun! Can’t get enough of it.
We headed towards the track, admiring the stones (that look like they were imported from Easter Island) on Mt Boulder. Striking sight against the dark green foliage. The sun was setting down on the other end of the peninsula casting some beautiful shadows.
On Telegraph Tk – overlooking Oberon Bay
David stopped to take pictures, then we ran-walked this portion (those big gulps of water must have messed up my system – again) and we soon hit Telegraph Junction. Told him about the veterans who come to support the run; they sit there, take our numbers, offer us food and water and are very nice. We walked to the turnoff, then headed West on the dreaded 4WD track.
At first it’s not that bad, but when the sand gets deeper, it’s not easy to move, so we ended up pretty much walking all this portion, pondering which 4WD would be best on this terrain. At least the company and conversation was great. At Oberon Bay the tank was completely dry, the tap turned upwards. We walked onto the beach in the deep sand and soon saw Oberon Bay at low tide.
The beach was runnable, but we walked it while I told David about the night when I did the 68 km and finished in the dark. The end of Oberon Bay was all covered with the moving water and there was such a thick mist, that I couldn’t see the beach exit.
We took our shoes off when crossing the small creek, the water was nice and cold for the feet, then sat down on a rock close to the track to put them back on. I watched how he meticulously cleaned the sole of his feet and in hindsight, I wish I did the same – ended up with a bloody blister (there is blood in it) on my left toe. There were about two tablespoons of sand in my shoes (these are the ones that apparently drain well).
We hiked, walked, ran the portion to Lt Waterloo Bay, chatting away and really looking forward to that beer. At least I was – couldn’t shut up about it.
You can tell who was thirstier
Not sure if anyone noticed this – from Telegraph Junction the signs are getting closer and closer: there is one at Oberon Bay beach entry, another one at the exit; same at Lt Oberon Bay, giving the hikers/runners a “you are getting closer” sense.
When we arrived to Lt Oberon Bay, I pointed out the small pole that signals the beach track. There used to be a sign there long time ago. The sand is soft here, we walked along the short beach which other times seems like eternity, then climbed out on the sandy track. You make a painful step upwards, then slide back a little… As always, I couldn’t wait to get out of there.
Just had to capture this
The sun was setting down and the colours were amazing as we kept walk/hike/running towards Norman Bay. I think Otto called as we were getting closer and asked how we are travelling. From Norman Bay we took the short cut to the Visitors Centre – the beer was getting closer. Once we arrived, called our spouses, then pulled out the tall glasses and opened the Nut Brown Ale. Those two glasses received a lot of attention on social media 😃
We had a shower and headed home. It was a great day and I am happy I could share the Prom with a friend who appreciates it.
Gear
The usual, from mandatory didn’t carry the long johns and overpants (had them with me, though).
Food and hydration
1 l of GU Tri-Berry Hydration Drink in the bladder
500 ml GU Hydration Drink Mix – Watermelon; re-filled at Lt Waterloo Bay
250 ml tap water; re-filled at Refuge Cove and Lt Waterloo Bay
6 rice paper rolls with red, yellow and green pepper, coriander, mint, a thin slice of steak—only had 4
Dark chocolate and ginger
Dates
Clif Blok Shots
How to get there
This is the route we took from Leongatha to Tidal River. Click the More options link on the map to enlarge it.
Carry enough food and water. After Little Waterloo Bay there is no water until maybe Oberon Bay. There is a tank there, but there is only water in it when there was enough rain.
Carry a PLB, alternatively keep someone updated about your progress. Garmin has LiveTrack, Strava has Beacon. If you have a smart watch, these can work together very well wherever there is network coverage
I knew I was undertrained for this but I had a plan: if I can manage the nutrition right, I can do it and I can do it better than two years ago. That was the plan.
I’ve been on the course three times in the four weeks leading up to the run. First time I got to Diamantina Spur, then turned back (work), following week I got to Mt Lock car park and had to take the “short cut” down on Bon Accord, because I bonked going up on Swindlers (same hot day as this). Third time I just wanted to close the loop: went to Mt Loch car park along the Razorback ridge and did the remaining 24 km in ideal conditions. This is when I tested the nutrition and it worked great – true, there was no Swindlers in the equation.
I picked up Otto at the airport and drove up to Harrietville, stopping in Bright for pizza. I’ve made a shitload of pasta and pesto, thinking we’ll have a big pasta night. Ani and Nelu (my sister and brother-in-law) left quite late and got stuck in the Melbourne Friday traffic…
We booked Feathertop Retreat as our base for this weekend. From outside it looks like a small country house but it’s quite big inside, it can sleep 8-10 people. We really loved the place, it has a rustic, down to earth feel.
Once Otto and I have carried all the stuff into the house, I started getting ready for the day, making the rice paper rolls and making sure everything I don’t need to take to gear check is also in sight. At 7.15 Otto took me down to the Harrietville Hotel Motel – this is where the registration, gear check and briefing happened. He didn’t get out of the car, because he was wearing the Parkroyal slippers, which looked rather funny on his feet. I always wondered why these kind of slippers never look like a pair…
Julie [Savage] and Paul were at the registration table; I got my bib (6441 this year), we had a chat, then I looked for Chris Spano – I’ve brought him a few pieces of mandatory gear that he was missing. Ended up giving the overpants to Mark [Boulet]. It was great to see Duncan from ASAR – he was doing the gear checks. Other runners were sitting around, waiting for the briefing, too. I was convinced it starts at 7.30, but Paul said it’s at 8.30, so I walked back to the house and continued with the preparation. At 8.25 Otto took me down to the HQ again. Paul – in his usual easygoing style – delivered the briefing; snake bandage, good weather – bad weather, course change in case the thunderstorm hits. I liked the idea of not having to carry the thermals and the long johns on a hot day to make room for more water in the pack and that there was a possibility to take the Bon Accord option if one was not feeling fit to go all along the ridge, then down Bungalow Spur.
After the briefing, I had a short chat with Coral and her husband, then Jacqui and Darren when Gabor and Dan came over. They were supposed to stay in the cottage I’ve booked first (when I didn’t know my sis is coming too) and got stuck with (thanks heaps Stayz!). Dan decided to stay with two other friends, so I went with Gabor to the cottage to make sure he finds it and all is kosher with the owners. It was pitch dark as we were driving down to Shady Brook – same as last year, although back then I walked there. We checked Gabor in, then he drove me back to Feathertop Retreat. Otto was really happy to see him, even if it was very briefly – we all needed to get going.
Ani and Nelu arrived after 10, both exhausted. We were already showered, packed for next day and Otto has boiled some pasta for Nelu. These two had some palinka (strong liquor made of prunes) and were in a great mood. Ani was trying to send us all to bed, looking at me and telling me they won’t stop if we don’t drag them. It was funny, but I like it when people around me are happy so I wasn’t much worried about being tired.
This house is really well partitioned: I suggested Ani and Nelu to stay in the master bedroom (with the ensuite ), because it’s behind two doors, so I can have a shower, make my coffee and toast without waking up anyone (except Otto, of course). Alarm went off at 4.15. I like to take my time and not rush. Woke Otto up an hour later, and we walked out at 5.30. It was pitch dark where the street lights didn’t reach. Saw the head torches walking up the street. The bakery was open and empty.
So nice to see familiar faces at the start line… big hug to Tash, Gabor, hello to Jacqui, Coral, Chris Roberts. We usually take a selfie with Gabor before start, have no idea why we didn’t do it now. Otto is always nervous – for me. Told him so many times not to be, nothing will go wrong and I’ll be fine, but he can’t help himself. Then Dan appeared at the back. I introduced him to Otto. Countdown, then start. The mass of shoes started moving with the lights. Someone made some noise with a cowbell, I wonder what the people living in the house close by were thinking… but I loved it.
Otto ran next to me until we were in the front of the house, then he wished me luck, gave me a kiss and headed right. It’s always nice seeing the line of headlights going up Bungalow Spur. I wanted to keep a steady pace on this section. I’ve spent most of the uphill with Erin [Nightingale], who did Mt Bogong Conquestathon the week before and now should be recovering… Erin is a lovely lady and I hope our paths will cross again in the near future. We passed each other with Luke a few times, his hike is very strong. I’ve met Saravana – a runner from India, who came to Australia for a two week visit and decided to sign up for Razorback 64 km. I wondered what made him do this? I caught up with Luke at Federation Hut, he was repacking. We took a selfie, then I got going.
I usually put my Bonatti on at Federation Hut, but now I thought it’s not that bad, I can keep going… I must have been around the MUMC turnoff when I realised I really need to put the jacket on, it’s getting very cold. Took my pack off and put the jacket on while trying to put the pack back… everything was hanging everywhere! This is so not like me! So I stopped, fixed the jacket, the pack and started going up the stairs when I realised I don’t have my Salomon belt! I must have dropped it when I put the jacket on… there were all the gels, Clif Shot bloks and some lollies in it – the stuff that I can have in between real food.
I looked back, it was a bit steep to go back for that, so I decided to pick it up on the way down. I saw Clare [Weatherly] and mentioned to her that I’ve lost my belt and asked her to leave it there, will pick it up on the way back. It was blinding going against the sunrise, but the fresh air and the thought of a great day has made me feel alive and ready for the adventure.
Many runners were already heading down (fast ones must have been halfway down Diamantina by now), carefully hopping over those rocks. I saw Jacqui, she gave me a hug and told me “Well done kiddo!!” – that’s so sweet!! Really cheered me up, especially since I am a few years older than her. Tash was coming, too and gave me a hug and lovely, encouraging words. Then I saw Vanessa! Haven’t spoken to her for a very long time, so a hug and a little chat followed. Wished each other all the best and went the opposite ways. When I got to the top, Ian was clicking away, a few other people taking pictures and repacking. Told Ian we need to take a selfie – so we took a few with my phone and I posted one to fb. Ian took some stunning shots of the runners arriving to Mt Feathertop, love his work.
On the way down I saw Erin and Luke – took a photo of them, then came the first 22 km runner. Congratulated him. What surprised me was, that he was nice, thanked me and said “well done” or something along those lines. The second 22 km runner was nice, too. Then Julie was coming, which meant there were no more runners in the 40- or 64 field. Asked her if she’s seen my belt by any chance, she said she didn’t, so I started to worry a bit… maybe the wind picked it up and it will end up in the valley???!! I was looking hard for that belt, risking a fall at every step, but I couldn’t find it. I also looked at branches, maybe someone picked it up and put it on a branch… when I got to The Cross and didn’t see the belt hanging off that tree branch, I knew I’m not going to find it, so I recalculated my food plan and made a conscious decision not to let this get to me. I will work with what I have. Shit happens all the time, just need to be positive. Called Otto to let him know and asked him to make a couple more rice paper rolls and bring it to Diamantina Hut.
This year I decided not to get out of every 22 km runner’s way as I did in the previous years. It worked!!! I did go sideway or they stopped and let me pass, which I really appreciated. Saw Sasha [Taplin] speeding. Her face lit up and stopped for a hug and a few nice words, which was great. James [Brennan] was not far behind her – got another hug and good wishes!! How lucky I am today?! Saw the guy with the two kids, then another two young girls and I was amazed by them. Praised them, as I admire these little humans going for such a run.
As I was getting closer to the Diamantina turnoff, I saw a runner coming back from the Razorback and turning onto it… must have missed the turn… that sucks! I held off taking off the Bonatti until I turned onto Diamantina to avoid holding up anyone on the Razorback track. Steve [Lewis] was approaching as I was getting going. I asked him if this was his first Razorback. He said he did it a few years ago and he got lost on Diamantina Spur. Told him I’ve been here twice in the last few months, there is no way we’ll get lost. So we stuck together and chatted all the way down the spur, constantly watching out for snakes.
We reached the bottom in no time. There was another runner at the creek, filling up her flasks. I went on the right side, after the bridge to refill whatever I could and I also had a few gulps of the fresh, cold water. Steve kept going and he was out of sight by the time I looked around after I packed my flasks away. I took a quick inventory of my food stash… I’ve already had two rice paper rolls, some chocolate and a date. Should have one more roll two pieces of banana, one mandarine, two more dates, ginger and chocolate. I forgot about the extra roll and mandarine I packed for just in case. I decided to have a piece of banana. Turned left at the sign, then again. Then I reached the Blair Hut sign, turned left again…
Didn’t bother taking photos of the hut now, just went past, hopped over the creek, then turned around to wet my triangle bandage, when I noticed a dead fish just 20 cm from where I was standing. Glad I didn’t leave refilling the flasks to this crossing! It started to get warm… and then came Westons Spur – there should be a sign there. At this point I was about 5 minutes behind the schedule. As I was going up on Westons I heard some noises from behind. As I looked back, saw Steve a few steps behind me. Asked him what happened. He said he missed the turn and had to come back. He hiked so fast, I didn’t even try to keep up with him.
The track got narrower and the wild raspberries appeared along it, with blackberries here and there. I had some of both, they were so sweet. Julie likes these, too. I welcomed the shade, thinking there will be nearly nada on Swindlers. Had a sip of the beer I brought with me – it did give me an umpf. I remembered the time when I climbed this with Tay, the damn hut seemed so far away! Now it just popped up. Didn’t bother with the spring further up, still had plenty of water. I started to feel the effects of not eating… not good! The bushes scratched my arms again, couldn’t wait to get out of that area.
Once on the high plains I tried to shuffle as much as possible, thinking I’ll have to get some jelly snakes at Pole 333… when I looked up, I could see some movement there. As I was getting closer, there was a lady whose top was the same colour as Julie’s and that confused me so much!!! I couldn’t fathom how she could’ve gotten there without passing me somewhere. I didn’t leave the course… until I realised it was someone else. The lady took a photo of Jordan (the lovely checkpoint minder) and me, then she and her mates picked up their pack and took off towards Cope Hut, wishing us all the best.
I saw Tailwind powder there and asked Jordan if I could have some. He said of course, it’s his personal stash, but he brought it for us. So thoughtful!!! Told him what happened with my belt, so he tried to pour some Tailwind into my flask, with most of if flying everywhere (it was very windy up there). I took a few snakes, too and gave Jordan the rubbish I had on me (picked some up on the trail). He wished me good luck and I took off, trying to shuffle as much as possible on the flat. I had a snake… tossed it in my mouth for some long minutes. Then I tried to call Otto, to let him know how I was going. Call went straight to his message bank, so they must be somewhere in the valley, around Washington Creek… later on I managed to talk to him. Tailwind doesn’t sit well with me, I could hardly swallow the little sips I was taking.
Saw a group of hikers coming up from Cobungra. Had a little chat with them, then told I don’t envy them for the pack they are carrying and kept going. I’ve never seen this many people at Cobungra Gap and around Dibbins Hut!! I’ve filled my flasks, added cold creek water to the ~50 ml of warm beer I had in the bottle and put it in the water to cool more while I soaked my triangle bandage, washed my head, neck, face and arms. Got dizzy as I suddenly stood up from squatting next to the water. Headed up the dreaded Swindlers… it was already nice and warm, around 1.45. On the way up I thought – since no one is coming – I could just listen to some upbeat music. So Whitney Houston and the Mas Que Nada (the latter about 5 times).
As I was getting closer to Derricks Hut, I tried to call Otto, but got to his message bank again. They must be driving up and no signal, so I called Paul. Let him know about my whereabouts and told him about the belt, just in case someone has brought it back to him. He told me he’ll look out for it, then called me back saying that yes, it was handed in, I can have it at Diamantina Hut. That was a relief!! By this time I couldn’t eat, the sips of the watered down beer didn’t feel good. Had two pieces of ginger at Derricks Hut for some calories… then Otto called and asked if I wanted them to come to Loch car park. I said yes, and bring some beer, too.
Had no idea where I got the energy from, as I was running on empty for a while – even water made me gag – I shuffled down and then hiked up when I saw the troops heading my way. They were all cheerful, taking pictures… sis with a bunch of yellow flowers… told her that we may get into trouble for this, they might be protected. Ooooops!!! Asked Otto where is the beer? He said they didn’t bring it down, it’s in the car, but headed straight up for it. Love this guy!!! When I was nearly at the car park, Otto got there and opened a Nut Brow Ale for me. I had a few sips of the cold beer, then hunched a little until it absorbed and I was able to continue. Nelu said he’ll come with me up to Mt Hotham – he’s never been that way, so we headed up, along the pole lines and pink signs.
As we were getting closer to the summit, I recognised the old emergency guy I’ve met two weeks ago. He was studying the area with binoculars. Said hello and he remembered me. Nelu and I took a few photos at the cairn, then headed down to the Diamantina check point. Otto and Paul was making noises to cheer us coming. It was great to see Duncan here and the other gentleman, who offered to fill up my flasks with water. I had plenty of water with me, so I just asked if I could have water melon. Must have had at least 10 pieces! I bet my body absorbed the juice and the sugar like a sponge! Then I rearranged my pack – stuffed the extra food Otto brought (realised I still had another roll and a mandarine), swapped the Red Lenser 5 I used in the morning for the Ay Ups (they’ll be much better going down Bungalow Spur in the dark).
I decided not to change shoes, but continue in the ones I started with – Otto was a bit disappointed, he carried all this stuff for nothing… I had another sip of beer (beer after watermelon you ask?! There is a joke about this!) then I took off onto the Razorback Track along the ridge. It was still warm, but the wind made it reasonable. Saw some hikers, they were treading carefully on the rocks, looking at me strangely. When I bumped into a couple – that was more interesting! Guy asked me how long I have been running today and how long I’ve got to go. When I told him, he signalled that I was crazy, he would never do that. We had a lovely chat anyway. Then for kilometres, I haven’t seen anyone. The Sun was heading down, producing some amazing lighting. I took a selfie and posted it on Facebook. Looking at it later, it clearly shows that I was quite tired by then.
My plan to have food from Diamantina Hut to the finish quickly evaporated when I tried to have one of the rice paper rolls. I just turned it around in my mouth and could hardly swallow it. I tried a sip of beer… that didn’t feel great, either – and THAT wasn’t a good sign!! Every time I was going up, I felt no energy. The downhills were a bit more manageable, but up… really hard, even with the poles. I had the mandarine, last bite nearly came back up. I looked ahead and saw Mt Feathertop – still nearly that far to go! I kept looking for the Champion Spur turnoff, but couldn’t see it. At least I wasn’t sure – saw a track looking something around 47 km, making a mental note – will check it out when I get home. There were a few drops of rain, which was great. I would’ve loved it if it rained.
Saw a rabbit as I was getting closer to the Twin Knobs. Then the Diamantina Spur turnoff!!! Yayy! From here is pretty much downhill. I felt nauseous and even water was making me gag. Called Otto to let him know I was nearly at Federation Hut. There were two guys coming from Mt Feathertop, turning towards the hut, not even bothering to say hello. I stopped to have a sip of beer, hoping it will give me a little energy, but it didn’t feel good. At Federation Hut there were many people in tents, setting up their tents. I saw/heard something very uplifting as I got closer – a family of three (mum, dad and little girl) in a small tent. Parents obviously tickling the kid, she was giggling and so cute. I waved hello to them as I passed.
Further down I bumped into a group of teenage boys, carrying water in plastic bottles and a pan. They must have been to the spring. They said hello and looked at me with respect – I really liked that. Then I mad a huge mistake: I had a sip of water and even though I only swirled it in my mouth and spit it out, I realized vomiting is next. Had to stop and everything I still had in me (hardly anything) – left. Funnily, I instantly felt better. I could even run!! So I stepped on it. When it started to get dark, I took the lamp out and put it on so it’s ready when I need it. Everything went well until I tripped in a root that was sticking out. Fell onto my right knee. The most hurting part was my right hand, as I pretty much landed with most of my weight on it. I had the poles in that hand, so it was a very weird feeling.
Dropped an F bomb or more, cleaned myself up with hand sanitiser and the water I had in one of my soft flasks, then kept going looking harder. I couldn’t wait to get to Tobias Gap… Picture point came so slow… then Otto called, asking how far I was. Told him a couple of kms from the finish line… he said they are here, heading up the track. I could see lights, but those looked more like bugs than head torches. They were bugs, by the way. Could hear music from the road, must be close! Then I tripped again! I didn’t fall this time, but hit my little left toes hard. More F bombs!
Then I could hear Otto calling my name. These guys were so happy, and so was I. I asked Otto if he had any cold water, whatever I was carrying was piss warm. I had a few gulps, then started running. Have no idea where I got the energy from, but pretty much after I threw up, I could just run. Remembered what Dan said – “just roll down”. I was in front, then Otto and then Nelu. Were have crossed the little bridge, then were nearly at the end of the track, when Nelu stopped. He rolled his ankle again! Felt so bad for him, because every time he runs with me, this happens. He was so supportive – he kept telling me how well I was going, especially now, towards the finish.
When I had that water earlier, Otto asked if I wanted beer. I told him I only crave water – mineral water. He called Ani, my sister and asked her to put a bottle of beer (Golden Ale for Julie at the finish) and a bottle of mineral water in front of the house, we’ll pick it up as we pass. Otto picked up the bottles (I had a big gulp, it felt so good!!) and ran with them in his hands, Nelu caught up with us and now all three of us running on the road. I didn’t look down, so I couldn’t see that Nelu is limping a little… but he ran with me to the finish line. As we were getting closer to the turnoff and the pub, people started cheering. I was running as fast as I could, but suddenly the water I had earlier came up, I was back to the throwing up phase again. What a way to finish!!! I feel so sorry for the people who had to see this!
Once I was able to move, I ran into the finishing chute – 15.01.47. There was no one there so Otto wrote the time on the sheet and we tried to figure out if we are supposed to switch the light off, or not. I knew there were more runners in the 64 km distance, but I haven’t seen anyone on the Razorback, so I thought they might have gone down Bon Accord Spur and there was no point sending Julie all the way along the Razorback and down Bungalow Spur for me. The other runners needed the help of her more then I did.
Paul came and told me well done, then Jacqui and Darren. I was please to learn Jacqui scored the third place. It was a strong field. We left the beer on the little table for Julie and headed towards the house. Otto has prepared the BBQ, Ani made the potatoes and the salad… it was raining. I kept peeking out, looking out for Julie and the other runners (Paul told us they went on to finish the 64 km), hoping I can cheer them. Had a shower, a few bites of beef, salad and kartoffel and a few sips of beer (couldn’t even finish a glass), then headed to bed. There was some party close by and noise pretty much all night. Had hardly any sleep.
Next morning we cleaned up the place and headed home. Huge winds and dust storm on the way.
All up, it was a good experience. Not necessarily “feel good” experience, but and experience I have learned a lot from. And being able to do a thing like this is something I don’t take for granted. One thing I’ve realised is that – at least the pace I was travelling at – one can’t do this without support. I tried it before and failed miserably. But maybe if I tweak the nutrition a little??!!…
Gear
Lululemon crop, top, socks
Bonatti jacket and Rainbird overpants
Red Lenser 5 in the morning and Ay Up at night
Salomon S-lab 12 l vest
Food
4 rice paper rolls with beef, smoked cheese, lettuce, mint, coriander, red paprika and hommus
2 small mandarines
1 small banana cut in two
A few Clif Shot Bloks – before I lost the belt
A few pieces of uncrystallised ginger
A couple of pieces of dark chocolate
2 dates
Wild raspberries and blackberries
1.5 jelly snake
About 10 pieces of watermelon – at the checkpoint
About half a scoop of Tailwind naked – between Pole 333 and top of Swindlers
For those of you who don’t like or have patience for my long reports, here is the ‘trailer’ version:
Started around 6.30 in Harrietville on minimal sleep
Went up Mt Feathertop, did a 360° video and posted on fb
Ran down to the creek towards the MUMMC Hut (not much water, don’t count on it)
Diamantina Spur was a bit overgrown, but otherwise ok
Turned left at the Blairs Hut sign in the Kiewa Valley—that is the right way to go
There is no Westons Spur sign once passed the toilet, just turn left
Westons is so overgrown in places – not fun, lots of scratches on my legs and arms
The creek after Westons is hard to reach and hardly pissing
Was able to actually shuffle along more poles on the High Plains—thanks again Dan Beard
This is where I stuffed up my nutrition—didn’t eat in time
Going down towards Cobungra Gap hurt (dunno why)
Forced a gel down at Cobungra, nearly came back—this is where I knew things are definitely not going to plan
Went up Swindlers in full sun (again), had to stop occasionally—my heart seemed to pop out of my chest and my head was about to explode
Started to dream about that beer…
From Derricks Hut I could not shuffle, but fast walk
Didn’t go up to Mt Hotham summit, but took the road, stopping two cars and asking if they had anything fizzy with them – 3 cars didn’t stop, 2 cars stopped but didn’t have anything fizzy only warm water
Decided to cut it short and go down Bon Accord Spur – bloody sign says 12 km, giving people a very false hope
Sun was setting down as I headed down the spur, ended on my bum once and tripped many others
Lost phone reception
Bon Accord is overgrown in places, lots of trees and branches fallen down and across the track
Wild flowers on Mt Feathertop
Pulled my headtorch out when it started to get dark, had to change the batteries (Led Lenser) after a few steps—glad I did that while I could still see
Got startled by a deer
Arrived to Washington Ck at 7.18, it was pitch dark
Couldn’t find the track on the other side, the place is so overgrown with bushes and blackberry
Went bushbashing, got scratched all over my arms and legs and lost my phone
Decided to spend the night near the creek, but was worried about Otto being worried, so after about half an hour of arguing with myself, I decided to activate the PLB, this way Otto at least knows where I am
Tried to spot the flashing light of my phone in the dark, unsuccessfully
Waited for the rescue to arrive, while trying to get some sleep on the rocks
First time I heard the chopper – 0:21
Chopper flew away, then back then away again a few times
Lit my head torch every time it was above
Second attempt to approach the scene, I was blown away by the winds, then saw someone descending on a rope…
Jimmy (the police officer) put the harness on me, clipped us together and got winched while a possum walked by casually
The chopper took me to Wangaratta airfield
Got handed over to Wangaratta Police and taken to the station
Called Otto who already knew most of it, because he was in contact with the police—PLB is a great thing!!
Cameron from Wangaratta Police helped me find accommodation and made sure I got there safely
At this point I didn’t have anything to eat or drink. Once in the room, I had a beer
Otto and Suzie arrived in the afternoon. Otto flew back from Sydney in the morning, Suzie picked him up at the airport and they drove straight to Wangaratta
Stopped for lunch and beer in Bright
Went to pick the car up in Harrietville, didn’t go to search for the phone (“fuck the phone!” is what Otto said)
Drove home
Out of the mandatory safety gear list there were two pieces I didn’t have on me during the run: the thermal long johns and the beanie/hat. Out of the gear I carried with me I’ve used every single piece except the safety matches.
Now here comes the full version. Grab some wine, beer or whatever you fancy – it’s a very long story.
As I said it in the “trailer”, I started this thing on minimal sleep. Did that not only for practical reasons, but also to get accustomed to push on tired at the Alpine Challenge miler in November. Started my watch at 6.40 as I left the car park in Harrietville. Signed into the book, checking who else is out there (thanks Tay for telling me this). I’ve noticed a bunch of 6 people signed in, going to “Bogon” – I was wondering… did they have a look at the map, at all?! In spite of the 10ish°C I didn’t need the gloves and took the Bonatti off before I started the climb.
Bungalow Spur
While going up Bungalow Spur, I was thinking about how lucky I am to be able to do this. Get out during the week and just simply go for it. I was experimenting with food I haven’t had on a run before, like using rice wrap instead of bread and trialling the pre-packaged baby food; not packing chocolate and ginger this time. As usual, the climb seemed like it was going on forever, Otto called and said “I knew you were going to do this!! If I could win Tattslotto this sure!…anyway, just take care of yourself.” I promised I will and went on. Saw a parasailer, a red one appearing from behind the mountain. It was so sudden, I didn’t get the chance to take a shot.
I reached Federation Hut eventually. I could hear voices as I was getting closer, then saw two boys, walking to the water tank with bottles. I said hi, they reluctantly said hi back (what’s wrong with today’s youth??!! Absolutely no manners for some). I took my pack off at the hut and put on the Bonatti, it’s always windy up at Mt Feathertop. Took a few pics, then carried on tossing the idea of going down to the creek towards the MUMMC Hut. If I don’t go down today, I probably won’t get another chance for a very long time. I wanted to check it out, just in case I’ll ever needed water from there. I postponed the decision for the way back from the summit. It was a stunning day, wind wasn’t that bad going up.
On Mt Feathertop
Ani, my sister called as I was nearing the summit. Wanted to know how the weekend was… we had a chat, and by the time we hung up, I was up on the top. Took that 360° video, posted it on fb, then headed down. The views were amazing. I saw some clouds further and imagined going through them – how cool (literally) that would be?! I decided to go down to the creek, nearly finished a soft flask of water, would be nice to have a great tasting refill. As I was approaching the spring, hopped over some mud and finally saw the little trickle. Climbed up and filled the flask, had some of it, then refilled. It tasted great, indeed, but I think I won’t make this detour again.
As I was heading out of the muddy part, I lost my balance and stepped straight into ankle deep black mud which was hidden under the bright green grass. I swore a little, then headed up, when Otto called asking what happened, why am I off the track? Did you get lost? Told him what was happening – he didn’t like the idea but was relieved all is good. When I got to the The Cross, I decided to change the socks, it’s a long way to go and I didn’t want blisters. Taking off the Bonatti at this point was too early, wind was still chilly.
On the Razorback, I bumped into a couple, they were heading up to Mt Feathertop, then back along the ridge. We wished each other a great day and kept going. Looking back towards Mt Feathertop from Diamantina Spur was a beautiful sight – I did that a few times while I could see it. Took the Bonatti off, it started to get quite warm. I ran this ridge as much as I could, the bushes scratching my legs along the way. On one of the tops, I saw a bunch of guys – asked them where they are heading. They said “to Bogong Village” – aaaahhhh… the “Bogon bunch”!!!! – should’ve counted them, there should be 6. Told them about the Razorback Run in March, but they said they’ll be in NSW in a camp then. Wished each other a great day and I took off.
Diamantina Spur – one of the three drops
At the rock scrambling parts I took photos for George [Alexandropoulos] so he knows which are the “scary” parts of the Alpine Challenge miler. The poles here are a pain in the butt. Threw them down, then followed holding onto the rocks. When I was there last time with Tay, it seemed much easier – I was probably extra careful now because I was on my own. It was a warm day, I was really looking at the track – didn’t want to step on a snake or something… that was happening a lot today. Getting down to Kiewa Valley seemed much faster this time.
I filled the soft flask in the cold running water, then soaked the triangle bandage and cooled off my face, neck, arms. Felt good. I was hoping I find that turnoff, so I won’t need to go around as we did with Tay in December. Saw the “Blairs Hut” sign, pointing to the left in front of the trunk of a big tree. Since there were lots of pieces of big trees around, I guess the course description is somewhat confusing. Turned left at the sign and immediately recognised the track, then passed the hut after I took a few photos. Remembered the very first time I’ve been here – this is where I have met Helen [MacDonald].
Passed the toilet on the left, then turned left onto Westons Spur. There is no sign that says Westons Spur at this point. I turned left and up and started the climb. Had the plan to try something new – play some up beat music when it gets tough, so soon I had Mas Que Nada (Black Eyed Peas) coming from my right thigh pocket as I was pushing up Westons, looking out for snakes and glimpsing to the left every now and then – Mt Feathertop was still a stunning sight. I discovered some bright red berries. They were sweet and really nice, so every time I saw them, I had some. When (and if) I get my phone back I’ll post the pics.
A rare view from Westons
Just as I was thinking that Westons Hut is never going to come, there I was. Quick glimpse at the sign, didn’t even bother checking out the hut now, I was looking forward to some nice cold water from the spring further up. Saw the black and blue pipe, hopped over the mud… and the spring was hardly pissing. Worked hard to get a flask full of water, had some of it, then re-filled and got going. The ants were active again didn’t want to have anything to do with them. What followed after this was even more painful than the climb itself – scratchy bushes covering the track up to my forehead in places. The sweaty skin on my arms has suffered the most.
I could hear a chopper in the Bogong Village direction and thought if someone would ask me if I wanted a lift in a helicopter, I’d say “not necessarily, but since I’ve never flew in a chopper, I’d give it a go”….
Glorious Pole 333
It was hot with a light breeze on the high plains. I was looking forward to see some brumbies – they’ve left their mark on the track… should be somewhere… the view was amazing from there. I managed to shuffle some more here, nearly to Pole 333. The flies appeared, but they weren’t half as bad as when we were there with Tay. At Pole 333 I stopped, took a few shots, then turned right towards Cobungra Gap, keeping up the shuffle. Otto called, told him I was going well. I concentrated so much on keeping up the shuffle, that I put off eating until I reach the top and start descending. I think this was a big mistake. I did have something on the way down but probably missed the timing. I was still vary of snakes… treading carefully especially in the grassy parts. Saw the mountain ahead, the one I’ll need to go up next. Wasn’t looking forward to that.
At Cobungra Gap I saw a couple, they were probably setting up their tent on one of those elevated camp sites.
Cobungra Gap
Said hello, then turned right straight away as we did last time with Dan. I usually go around… dunno why. At the point where we met Douglas (the B2H checkpoint minder) I stopped to have a gel. First sip went down great, but after the next one I gagged. Pushed it down with some water anyway, then carefully ziplocked the packaging and headed down to the creek to wash my sticky hands, soak the bandage and fill up the soft flask with cold water. It felt great, especially since it started to really feel hot.
Swindlers Spur
Going up Swindlers Spur was exactly how it always feels at Razorback 64. Had to stop a few times to recollect myself – my heart was about to pop out of my chest and my head to explode… I imagined listening to music going up here, but I couldn’t be bothered with switching it on. Might have helped though. The lack of food and only small sips of water made it hard to move faster even when up on the flattish part. So far I think this was the best I did on this course and only hit the hard wall at the 36 km mark. Usually when this happens, I start to dream about a beer – that is what keeps me going. But on this occasion I knew Harrietville is a bloody long way to go. I couldn’t even shuffle, because as soon as I picked up some speed, I felt sick, ready to throw up.
Got an email asking me to get something done… replied with “I am in the mountains, will do it as soon as I get to the car”. Then Otto called, asking how it is going and letting me know he’s going for a beer… I thought that’s exactly what I need right now.
So I started to make some plans while walking as fast as I could. I thought I’ll ask whoever is at Derricks Hut if they have anything fizzy. There was no one there, so I hoped someone parked at Loch Car park would. Well… Loch Car park was full of earth moving machinery. Had to step over some dirt to get over to the road. I decided long ago, that I’ll give Mt Hotham summit a miss this time and walk along the road trying to stop cars and ask if they had anything fizzy…
The drivers of the first two cars l hauled looked away as they drove by. They probably thought I wanted a lift and they didn’t want a dirty hiker in their prissy car. It was quite disappointing. I thought that rule of the Universe, when you do something good and someone else might do something good to you in return works… very bitter. A week ago I gave my thermal top to a hiker at Federation Hut, because he wasn’t well prepared for the hike. I would’ve stopped if someone lifts their hand for help. I even stopped for others when they were out there in the middle of nowhere on a bike and asked them if they were ok, or if they needed something.
Fourth car was a ute, towing a boat. The guy stopped (big click as the boat followed), and asked if I was ok or needed a lift. Firstly I thanked him for stopping, then I asked him if he had anything fizzy with him. He looked around in the car and said he only has warm water, I can have that if I wanted. I told him I do have warm water and I do have food, but can’t eat or drink it – need something fizzy. He was very sorry, I could tell. He really wanted to help. Thanked him again and said good bye. The next car I hauled was carrying a family. They didn’t have anything fizzy, either but the woman asked me if I was OK, or if I was diabetic. She had some lollies and offered me one. I took it, because she really wanted to do something good. Thanked her and said good bye.
There were two cars parked at Diamantina, no one in them. I stood hunched over the rail guard at Diamantina for a minute or two, figuring out what to do, then looked at the signs and thought that Harrietville via Bon Accord Track 12 km looks much more appealing than getting a lift or going along the Razorback and down Bungalow Spur (the sign said 23 km). I started walking along the Razorback, looking back every now and then at the road. I’ve noticed a ute, which might have been the one with the boat that stopped. I thought if that’s the one, the guy is extremely decent. I was sucking on the lolly, but I noticed that it was making me sick, so I spit it out.
The sun was setting as I turned onto Bon Accord. The sign said 5.5 km to Washington Ck. I started to calculate… something is off here. Pulled out the map to check the distances again and reassured myself that I have way more to go than 12 kms. The descent was as painful as I remembered it from the two previous times I’ve been here. I stepped onto rocks and branches that rolled, landing on my bum hard once. Hit my right elbow and saw stars (like in the cartoons) circling around my head. I’ve lost reception and knew I had to step on it to make it back as soon as possible to Harrietville – Otto was already worried…
I tried a Blok shot, just kept it in my mouth to trick the senses… it worked for a while, but then I felt sick again and had to spit that out, too. I felt like vomiting, but nothing came out of me, since I didn’t eat or drink anything. I wasn’t worried about dying of hunger – there is a lot of fat stored in my body (all in the wrong places) that could be used for fuel. So many trees and branches to step over or duck under… I scored many scratches on this descend. When it started to get darker, I stopped and took the head torch out of the pack. I heard something falling into the grass there, but I couldn’t see anything.
I had a feeling that the batteries might be low (didn’t check them before I left, because I was hoping to only use it for maybe a half an hour today), so after a while I turned the torch on… sure enough it died within 30 seconds. Stopped, looked for the spare batteries… I usually put them in the same spot, but this time I must have moved them when I shuffled other things. At this point I thought “now I am f…d!!” took everything out of the pack and put it on the ground, finally found the damn batteries and luckily there was enough light to change them. As I started to put the stuff back into the pack, I’ve noticed those big ants are crawling on my feet, on the gear, everywhere. Quickly shook them off, packed up and kept going.
I could hear the creek, but I thought that I’ll never reach it, when suddenly I could see a fluoro tape on the left (thank you good soul for putting it there). Turned left, passed the bridge, filled my flask and crossed the creek, heading towards where I remembered the track was… I took a few steps, but it was so overgrown. I looked around, went to the right. Again, the trail ended in scratchy bushes. Went back and a bit to the left, couldn’t see any entry there… no log, either. Came back again and climbed up on the steep, dusty track-like part, again to hit the bushes. Got scratched by the blackberry thorns so much, it really hurt. I took my phone out, thought I’d check where we joined the track with Tay – no reception. Tried in a different direction – the spider webs got stuck on my face… grrrr! Did a few more tries and none of them seemed right.
It looked like I’m not going to find the damn track, so I decided to spend the night next to the creek and will surely see better in the morning. I just need to SMS Otto and let him know. Reached for the phone again, and realised in a shock, that it’s not in the pocket!! I must have lost it when I fell one of the several times into the bush. I was really angry with myself at that point. Went back to the rocky part and switched off my head torch, hoping I could see the flashing red or blue light… nada!!! I sat down, took off my wet shoes and socks. My feet started to get cold, so I put the gloves on my toes to keep them warm. The air wasn’t cold, but I was wet from sweat and knew it won’t take long until I start cooling down and shaking…
Pulled out all my gear from the pack, put on the thermal top, the overpants, the Bonatti… then I started to feel cold again. I pulled out the safety blanket and covered myself with it, lying down on the rocks, using my pack as pillow and scanning the other side for any tiny red flash. I thought of pushing the red button on the PLB – at least they’ll know I am there. What if I just wait it out?! I am sure Otto will tell me off for not using it… so I did this for about a half an hour, I am not sure. Then I thought I’ll just do it. Pulled out the PLB from the pack, extended the antenna and pushed the red button. It started flashing. I put it on a flat rock in front of me with the antenna pointing up. It must have been 9.30ish.
I laid down, covered myself with the safety blanket and tried to get some sleep until the help comes. I thought if they see the location, there will be someone coming from Harrietville – that would’ve been simple and easy… the time was passing, I was half awake-half asleep, when I felt something at my toes… switched the head torch on and saw a rat running away, towards the water. WTF?! From there on I looked around more often. Fell asleep a bit, when I could hear the chopper. It was 0.21. I switched on my head torch and started packing frantically. Looked up, moved around a bit so they can see me better – then the chopper flew away. They did this a few times at different intervals, then it came back at some point, came really close. I thought this is it! But then it went away again.
I still didn’t give up on looking at the opposite side, scanning the bushes for any light, but whatever it was, must have been a vision. I didn’t eat anything or had any water for many hours now… and the food I had with me wasn’t appealing, either. The tomatoes became sauce when I fall on my bum further up, soaking the bread – looked yuck. I tried a sip of water every now and then, it was OK. Otto must be very worried by now, I thought; he must be thinking the worse… whereas I felt safe there, on the banks of Washington Ck, much safer than walking down Church St in Parramatta in the middle of the day.
The chopper came back, then away, then back again, now getting closer and lower. I had no idea what to do. First I tried to get out of its radius, the wind it was making was very powerful. Small rocks and chips were flying everywhere. Then it got a bit close to the tree I was standing under, chopping off small branches. I thought I’d better get out of there, a limb might fall on me and they’d have a casualty. Then it lowered itself and I saw someone descending from it. The guy landed on the slope, but quickly came up on the flatter part. I went there, fell a few times from the powerful air movement. First thing I did, was to thank him for coming. He presented himself as Jimmy and asked if I am Rozsa and if I was OK. I told him, yes I am and he started to get the harness ready for me.
Made a ball of the safety blanket and stuffed it in my pants. Packed up the poles and had them hanging off my wrist. As he was fixing the harness, a possum has walked by about half a meter from us, casually like “oh, someone’s being picked up this Wednesday, let’s have a closer look”. Pointed it out to Jimmy – he laughed. I noticed my right pinky was bleeding… where did I do this?! He asked me to kneel and hold him, then signalled to his colleague to pull us up. I imagined being scared in such a situation every time I saw this happening to others, but I felt safe, really safe. When we were up at the chopper, I thought “now what?!” the other officer – Nick – has pulled us in, I was on my knees, then Jimmy tapped the chair signalling for me to sit on it. It was a bit awkward in that small space, with all the harnesses clipped to everything, then the poles…
They’ve reorganised themselves, then gave me a headphone and microphone and asked me what happened. Told them briefly, then they said they are taking me to Wangaratta, because they need to refuel, and the local police will look after me. I thought, wouldn’t it be simpler to drop me off in Harrietville?! Anywhere?! I went with the flow, had no choice at that point. We soon arrived to Wangaratta, got out of the chopper and had a lovely conversation once they’ve taken my details. Jimmy said he’s got the same kind of PLB and it had great signal. Asked him to help me deactivate it (couldn’t read the small writing on the back), which he did.
I promised them a beer, then they wished me all the best and handed me over to Simon, the local police officer.
Simon took me to the station and told me they have a domestic, can’t look after me, someone will help me, just wait here. Cameron came and has shown me where the toilet is and asked me if I was OK. Told him I was ok, but I would love to call my husband if it’s possible. He pointed out a phone to me and asked me where my car was, how am I going to get there. Told him the car is in Harrietville and he suggested I stayed in Wangaratta at a motel until someone would come and pick me up. I called Otto, who already knew what happened and asked me if I was OK. Told him all is good, I just need to get back to Harrietville for the car and to look for my phone. I asked Cameron if a taxi to Harrietville is a possibility. He gave me the options: taxi centre number (called them, the guy said it would be $200+, so I tossed this idea, although looking back it would’ve been the cheapest option); and suggested the Rayley Motel (they had a truck accident the other week and this was the only place where they’ve answered the phone in the middle of the night).
Called the Rayley and I must have awaken a lady called Gloria, but she said as long as I have the credit card number, they can accommodate me… I thanked Cameron for his help (he asked what happened and was genuinely interested in it), another officer drove me to the motel and didn’t leave until I was inside the building. Hats off to Victoria Police!!
Once in the room, I called Otto, had a beer, a shower and went to bed. Only washed the socks, as I was sure the clothes wouldn’t dry over a few hours. Had a couple of hours sleep, woke up like clockwork at 5.59. Had two juices from the minibar, a shower, dressed up and checked out
Otto and Suzie called a few times and told me they are on their way, but there are roadworks on the freeway, so I sat on a bench in front of the hotel, watching the traffic, waiting for the black BMW to arrive.
Otto flew back from Sydney (had all his travel changed overnight, I guess his bosses weren’t delighted), Suzie picked him up at the airport and they drove straight to Wangaratta. None of them slept much (if anything at all). On the way to Bright they told me their side of the story… gosh!!! They had it so much worse then I did!!! If I knew this is going to happen I wouldn’t have pushed that stupid button. It’s a long story, lots of phone calls with Victoria Police and the emergency. Otto has surely ended up with more gray hair and was still stiff and angry-anxious-worried for another day.
We stopped for lunch at the brewery, then drove to Harrietville to pick up the car. Otto said “fuck the phone, you’ll pick it up another day” – I was totally ok with this. Then we drove home.
This whole two days were a huge experience for me and for my family. And Paul and Carole, because Otto has contacted them, too. Everyone was worried at some point.
The things that I took away from this:
Only activate the PLB in life-death-serious situation – it’s not worth shaking up this many people otherwise; although if I was bitten by a highly poisonous snake, I’d be kaput by the time help arrived
My family really loves me and cares about me
My family doesn’t know that I am not the kind of person who goes close to the edge of a cliff to have a better look
I’ll be taking the spare phone with me (as I used to before I had the PLB) if I am going alone, so remote and so far
Carrying the mandatory gear makes the difference, you never know when you get stuck
My training needs so much fine tuning, it’s not funny
I’ll be carrying a sip of beer with me (even if it’s ginger beer) on long runs/hikes
Gear
Lululemon top (very old) and the fast and free crop, socks (two pair very high speed)
LED Lenser 5 with spare batteries – thought the Ay Up was overkill
Snake bandage and small first aid kit (swipes, Panadol, bandaid, Opsite Flexigrid dressings – ended up using two of the latter)
poles
PLB
Nutrition
One toasted bread with butter, Jamon and cheese with tomatoes (brought it back)
3 pockets of trout paste packed into a piece of lettuce then into a square of rye flat bread with tomatoes – I think I had 1.5 the rest got smashed when I fell on my bum
3 pockets of rye flat bread with vegemite – first two went down well at different times, but I could only have the half of the third one
3 pockets of rye flat bread with butter and apricot jam – first one was a delight, had the half of the second one and the third one got smashed when I fell
Pre-packaged baby food x 2: Just Vegies Sweet Potato, Corn, Spinach and Carrot – this was a disaster, made me gag but the Smooth Sweet Potato Carrot Apple was really well received by my tummy
1 Salted Caramel Apple VFuel gel, 1 Cool Mint Endura gel, Mountain Berry Blok Shots, not sure how many
Water about 1.5 l, 250 ml sour cherry juice, about 125 ml coffee with sugar (carried all these in soft flasks); I also had about 1 l of tap water in the bladder for emergency
The plan was this: I sleep a few hours during the day, go to sleep early, wake up at midnight and start driving at 1 am to arrive to Harrietville at around 5.30 and start at about 6. I also planned to not go alone, it would’ve been much safer out there and especially the drive home; but things don’t always go to plan… some assholes have hacked the sites I look after and I needed to fix that first – no sleep during the day. By the time I ended up going to bed, it was after 9.30. I only saw mean hackers in my dream, woke up at 11.39. Worked a bit, spoke to Suzie and Evgeni (they were in Milan, wondering what the hell I am doing up at that hour) and finally rolled away at 1.43 am.
Getting out of town wasn’t smooth sailing with the road works on the Monash and Tulla and even further out, but once I was over that, I just had to concentrate on kangaroos. Stopped for fuel and to stretch out at the stations and was glad I packed some coffee in one of the 250 ml soft flasks – I could sip on that for a bit of “pick me up”. The moon was mesmerising, it was hard not to keep looking at it – so shiny and big! From the freeway at Glenrowan to Myrtleford, then after Bright I really had to focus. Nearly hit a rabbit and saw two roos on the side of the road.
By the time I got to Harrietville it was daylight. I pulled into the small parking at the caravan park end, toilet, had something to eat, geared up and got going. It was 6.25. The air was crisp, had my gloves on until Otto called. Took a photo of the house we’ll be staying in March on Feathertop Lane – Ani and Nelu can even come out with their coffees in their hands and cheer us all, I thought. As I was shuffling along, listening to Otto, a car passed me. The driver was eating an apple; we waved each other, then he kept driving. When I got to the trail head the same person was putting his hiking shoes on. We said hello and wished each other a nice day. I signed the book and hit the trail.
Shortly, had to stop to take my Bonatti off, it got too warm. Stuffed it into the back pack, extended the poles and kept going. I knew it’s going to be a long day, I haven’t done any training since L2H, but I was just happy to be out there – finally! I didn’t want to rush Bungalow Spur, needed energy for Westons and Swindlers, as well. One step in front of the other… ran the flats as much as I could, the overgrown bushes made it a bit harder, though. I saw a deer on the left hand side before Picture Point, by the time I got my phone out it hid in the bushes. Lots of birds, I even saw a lyrebird. Gabor loves them.
Bungalow Spur a tad overgrown
Bungalow Spur seemed to go forever. Last time I’ve been here it was in December, with Tay. We were chatting away back then, now I listened to the sound of the forest. Switchbacks, a bit of mud, rocks, leaves, roots… then I passed Tobias Gap. Kept looking back to see the mountains, the view was just amazing. Passed the old Feathertop Hut site, then the creek turnoff… then finally got to Federation Hut. Took a few photos, then looked at Mt Feathertop and the Razorback – yep, I’ll need to go along both today. The wind picked up earlier and it was getting cold, pulled out the Bonatti and put it on, then headed towards The Cross.
On my way up I was thinking, that I maybe should go and check out the creek at the MUMMC Hut, it’s “only” 500 m from the Feathertop track, but then I looked at the watch and dismissed the idea. Another time. The views were amazing as I was going up towards the summit. Couldn’t resist – had to take photos (this is where the bad hair shot happened). Passed the turnoff to the MUMMC Hut then saw the Stairway to Heaven (I just called it that), the track goes up like a beautiful staircase. At the summit I took a 360 degree video, checking out the line of Diamantina Spur.
Getting close to Mt Feathertop summit
I was getting emails in the meantime… one of the sites (I didn’t get the chance to fix it, yet) was restored, but I had a bad feeling about it. Checked it on my phone (so glad there is good reception up there) and it was badly hacked, I really needed to do something about it. As I was fiddling with the phone, pulling it out from and putting it back into my pocket I tripped and fell onto my left knee. Gosh, that hurt! Those sharp rocks are so unforgiving! I walked a bit, checking the damage, swearing away, then picked up the tempo until Otto called, then Paul.
Passed the Cross and wanted to enjoy the Razorback to Diamantina Spur. Didn’t really work out – more emails… I was tossing the idea of cutting it short – I must fix that site! Ran to the Diamantina Spur turnoff, turned around and headed back. I was both glad and disappointed.
As I was getting closer to Federation Hut, I could see someone laying out his clothes onto the veranda. I recognised the guy from the car, then thought I’ll need to find a place to put my pack down until I pack away the Bonatti. When I got there, I said hello and asked him where he is heading. He said he wants to go up Mt Feathertop, then along the Razorback and down Bon Accord Spur.
The Diamantina Spur turnoff
That’s feasible in a day, right?! I told him that’s 40 km and of course he can do it if he keeps moving. Asked him what happened to his clothes. He said he miscalculated the heat coming up and now he’s cold. He doesn’t have anything else warm with him and up there is quite chilly – next time he’ll have to bring a thermal, like mine (the Bonatti).
When I heard the word thermal, I thought I could give him my thermal top I was carrying for emergencies. Pulled it out from the pack, took it out from the plastic bag and gave it to him. Might be a bit tight, but is a thermal, nevertheless. He was very grateful for that. Asked him if this is his first time here, he said yes. Told him to watch for the fork before turning onto Bon Accord. He’ll need to keep right, otherwise he’ll miss the turn. He thanked me for that. I started going, but then I remembered I could show him on the map I was carrying. We said good bye, wished each other all the best and I got going.
As I was running-hopping along, I thought I should’ve given him the map, and maybe some food, too. I also should’ve told him where to get water, as there is nothing until Washington Creek… then I thought how could you leave without a map?!
I stopped to actually read this sign
I tripped quite a few times on the way down and frankly hated those moving rocks. Heard a larger animal in one of the corners, but I couldn’t see it. I was really focusing on not stepping onto a snake. It looked like “snake-world” there. Thankfully I didn’t see any. By the time I got back to Harrietville it was quite warm, 31 C. I quickly changed, washed up and set up my laptop on one of the picnic tables. It was quite a nice way to work. Had some food, a 750 ml bottle of ginger beer while people were coming and going around me.
By the time I finished what I needed to do, it was after 2 and time to head home. Soaked the towel and put it on the knee and the triangle bandage around my neck and drove home. No aircon for me.
Gear
Lululemon top (very old) and the fast and free crop, socks (two pair very high speed)
LED Lenser 5 with spare batteries – thought I will only need it for about half an hour
Snake bandage and small first aid kit (swipes, Panadol, bandaid, Opsite Flexigrid dressings)
poles
PLB
Nutrition
3 mini sandwiches of toasted bread with butter, Jamon and cheese with tomatoes (brought 2 back)
1 small banana (brought it back)
1 Peach VFuel gel, 1 Cool Mint Endura gel, Mountain Berry Blok Shots, not sure how many (had the VFuel)
Water 500 ml, 250 ml sour cherry juice, about 125 ml coffee with sugar (carried all these in soft flasks); I also had about 750 ml of tap water in the bladder for emergency. Didn’t drink all the coffee
What a day!!
Woke up at 1.41 A.M., scared I missed the alarm… it was set to 2.45. Maybe slept 3 hrs??!!
Rolled out of the garage at 4 sharp and in spite of the road works on the freeway, I was on the Hume Highway at 4.51. All went well until after Milawa, when I was driving against the strong sunlight and decided to wipe the windscreen. Didn’t realise I was stepping on the acceleration a tad harder, doing 108 in the 100 zone, when I have noticed that bastard hiding under a tree in a white SUV. Stepped on the break, but probably too late… bitter taste…
Arrived in Mt Beauty at 8.17 with plenty of time to have some food, etc. I promised Brett I’ll be at the coach station before 9. Had my very dry sandwich, then went looking for a toilet, when I saw Dan’s smiling face in the bakery. Said hello and asked how is he getting to Langfords. He said he is getting a ride with Brett. Asked if I could, too. Lucky day, there was another spot in Brett’s van. I went back, parked the car, grabbed my gear, then we got into the Trail+ van. I’ve met Sarah, Brett’s daughter. The conversation was very interesting, so much so, that we didn’t notice all the curves to Langfords Gap. Except for Brett, of course – he was driving very carefully.
I thought we’d get going as soon as we arrive, but then I’ve learnt that we might only leave after 12. The checkpoint was just being set up, so we helped wherever we could. It was exciting being on this side of the fence, hearing when the first runner is about to arrive, helping the runners through the checkpoint, chatting with the 29 km competitors who were getting ready to start. I’ve met Skye [Meredith], I’ve only realised who she was when I saw her tending to Thierry. George [Mihalakellis] gave me a Lumix and said “Just take photos” – so I did. Grabbed every opportunity to nail a moment of the race.
Otto called to ask what’s happening because he didn’t get the tracking link. Told him we will only leave around 12 and he wasn’t happy, because that meant me getting home even later and we were on the 7 am flight to Sydney in the morning… I’ve met Steve Rennick’s Dad, a lovely, old fashioned gentleman – really rare nowadays. He was waiting for Steve to reach the checkpoint, then headed up to Mt Hotham to the finish. Dan went ahead with a camera to see how far the lead runners were. This guy is a machine!! A very nice one.
There were many youngsters running through Lanfords Gap. I’ve learnt it was a camp and they were all training; it’s usually like this at this time of the year here. All those boys and girls were really serious about their running, you could tell this is their main sport: six packs, lean thighs and calves… the whole package. What really shocked me was, that they weren’t carrying any water and frankly, it was getting hot. Some came up and asked for water, but the Checkpoint Boss (Olivia) turned them away “if we give one person water, we’ll need to give to everyone and we don’t have enough. We need to look after our runners, first”. Yes, it sounded harsh, but she was right. Their coach was responsible for their safety and should’ve made sure they all carry water on such a hot day. Besides, the aqueduct was right there.
As the time passed, I realised I wasn’t prepared for this wait in terms of nutrition. I had enough for the 6ish hours, but not for 8 or more. I ended up having some bits and pieces from the check point and a banana – that was really good.
The checkpoint got very busy with the 64 km runners arriving then leaving and some of the 35 km runners finishing. We helped the 64 km runners with their water and gear. I loved the young lady finishing in the 35 km. She didn’t know she was first. Then I saw Paul Todd finishing, realised Catherine is there – I was really happy to see them, haven’t run with them for a very long time. Matt Veenstra said hello. Then the 29 km runners lined up for a photo and for the start. We were starting soon…
I was meant to sweep with Celeste Botton, but she got injured just a couple of days before the event, so when I first learnt that my new sweeping partner in crime is Dan Beard, my first thought was “what an honour!!”, then I kinda panicked – “gee, I can’t possibly keep up with this guy over 29 kms!”. As soon as we got going (at 12.07) he put me at ease – “We go at whatever pace you want. We are not in a hurry”. We started at an easy pace, but with full stomach and chatting I started to puff. It usually takes me about 2 kms to warm up and those 2 kms are pretty much harder than they should be. So I asked Dan to please walk a little. Then we did the 5 pole run – walk thing, chatting along and Dan counting the poles. This was really reassuring.
Cope Hut Checkpoint
At the Wallaces Hut turnoff we noticed the AAWT orange marker and talked about people possibly missing the course because of the “continue on the AAWT” phrase in one of the course descriptions. Then we saw our first “casualty”. I think his name was John (he had an Italian surname). We reeled him in and learned he is cooked – he’s stopping at Cope Hut. Walked with him to the checkpoint where we were greeted by Ali and Jamie [Moxham] who were running the checkpoint. Serge was lying on the ground on a sheet, with a dressing on his forehead. Dan asked him what happened. He had kidney problems, had to turn back to the checkpoint.
Ali gave us one of those colourful icy things – superdooper??!! – this was awesome as it started to get hotter (around 1?). Dan found out how far we are from the last runner, Ali took a few pics of us, then we headed off towards Pole 333.
Towards Pole 333 with Sarah
We did a few “let’s do 5 poles” then ran into Sarah, who was sweeping ahead and now returning to Cope Hut. She is such a happy girl! We chatted a little, took a few shots, then headed off in opposite directions. Dan saw the last runner and estimated us to be about 20 minutes behind him. The last two times I have been on this track it was dark, wet and I was buggered. This time it was actually pleasant: the conversation and the company was awesome and made it all so much easier. The lack of the race pressure helped, too. We saw a blue something… couldn’t believe my eyes – it was the checkpoint!!
We stocked up with water, I wetted my triangle bandage to cover up and cool my neck and shoulder, Dan wetted his hat, then we headed off – Swindlers was still ahead. Picked up some markers, which Dan pegged to my pack. We did the 5 pole thing again, then when we arrived to pole 267 we agreed on stepping on it on the downhill. Loved this bit!!! Every time I got here at Razorback I was already cooked, so running it with relatively fresh legs was really enjoyable.
Dan and Marianne on AAWT
We bumped into a hiker, an older lady, big backpack. It wasn’t easy going up that track. She sat down a bit while she talked to us. We found out she is Marianne, one of the hikers in a group of ten – five went the opposite way and that she has left her poles on Swindlers on the left, just off the track. She asked if we found them, could we let her know and/or give them to her mates.
I’ve punched in her phone number into my phone, took a picture of her and Dan then continued on. Before we knew it we were at Cobungra Gap. Went straight on this occasion (I usually go around. Why?! I don’t know). We already agreed to get some more water and cool down a bit in the creek, at the little bridge. We saw Marianne’s two mates half sitting, half lying on the ground, having a rest (it was already hot). We had a little chat, then bumped into Doug(las), our checkpoint minder, who was waiting for us. Passed Dibbins Hut, then started the hike up Swindlers Spur. I wasn’t looking forward to this part – it always happens in the hottest part of the day (except for the very last time, when Tay and I did it in the dark).
Dan found Marianne’s poles
As we started hiking, we were looking around for Marianne’s poles – they would’ve been really handy, as both Dan and I have left our poles at home. I didn’t talk much, as I tried to just keep going and breathing. Dan was the one who spotted the poles, on the left as Marianne described it. Took a picture of Dan holding them and tried to send it to Marianne, but since she wasn’t set up on my phone as a contact, I just didn’t know how to do it, so I just called her instead. She was very happy (they were Black Diamond – I wouldn’t want to lose those, either) and she asked if we could give them to her husband at Derricks Hut. We promised we will, Dan gave them to me and we kept on going – me in the front, Dan and Douglas.
Dan asked Douglas to find out how much water they have at the checkpoint and if there is too much, to just keep half of a canister and dispense of the rest – we needed to carry out the empty bottles, etc. When we reached the flatter part, Dan suggested we step on it a little so we won’t be too far from the last runner. He found out from Douglas about how much time difference is between us and him. We ran-walked this bit and soon arrived to Derricks Hut, where the guys were already packing up the checkpoint. Marianne’s husband was there, so I gave him the poles, he was very happy and thankful.
I had the last two slices of orange, we stocked up with water, stuffed the things in a cooler bag, Dan tied the water canisters together with a rope, grabbed the rubbish bag and got going, knowing that the last runner is close by and he is not doing well. Dan carried everything (wasn’t heavy, but still), I felt so bad about that. Kept asking him to give me at least one of the bags – he said “later”. We stepped on it a little, ran wherever we could, than sure enough, spotted the runner and his companion. The lady was carrying his pack, which was telling us he must be really bad. Dan ran up to him and asked how he was.
Walking with Justin
He was Justin, he said he is cooked. Dan told him that he still has time to make the cutoff, but … had already given up. We walked him to the road, where his mate was picking him up. We’ve asked them to take the checkpoint stuff, so we can move a bit faster.
It’s a bit of a slight downhill from the AAWT turnoff onto Machinery Spur – we’ve used this to make up some time, then walked up to Loch Car park. We didn’t have to go up to Mt Hotham, as that chekpoint was already taken down, Brett was heading our way. Just needed to get to Diamantina Hut. I’ve been looking for course markers all along and here I’ve spotted one, then another one… we’ve looked at each other and realised “Shit! There are more to collect!” – so we started going back and taking down the markers, then the signs cable tied to the poles. We gave them to Brett, who has just pulled into the car park and told us he had already picked up the ones further up and asked if we could take a car from the other car park into Mt Beauty.
There was a 4WD just leaving the car park. I recognised the man with the beard from the Cope Hut checkpoint. Dan asked him if he had two spots to take us to Mt Beauty. The car was full, but the man has moved a box into the back, freeing one spot (or two tight ones). Dan said he’s going to run, I can take the ride. Could tell he was waiting for a chance to really stretch his legs or push uphill. As we got closer, we stopped to ask him how far he is going. The next car park – there was the car parked that we were supposed to drive to Mt Beauty. The guys had to pick up another sign in between, giving Dan the chance to get to the car. By the time we got there, he had already opened the doors (it was hot) and was trying to start it up.
As we got going, we both agreed we don’t need aircon – fresh air, even if hot, it’s better. The ride down to Mt Beauty was long but the conversation was interesting, so we didn’t even notice. In Mt Beauty, we passed Katherine McMillan. Dan turned around and we stopped to pick her up, gave her a lift to the Motel. Dan wanted to make it to the presentations. We’ve seen Brett, stopped to ask him where we were supposed to drop the car off. He went to find out, then we drove to get my car from the main street, then to the address, gave the key to its owner, Dan had a quick chat with him, then we went back to the pizza place. We said good bye and I headed home – long way to drive.
Called Otto and had the watermelon that was already warm – felt good anyway. I took the short route now, didn’t drive through Bright so I can get home as fast as possible. It was a beautiful sunset, balmy night – still close to 30 C. I nearly ran over a snake. I’ve been expecting to see at least one on the course – especially at around Cobungra Creek and Blairs Hut. Dan was even joking about it, telling Douglas that’s why he lets me run in front, so I can get he snakes. I am willing to take this risk any time.
I was feeling tired and had to concentrate hard to not fall asleep. Myrtleford was so silent – hardly anyone on the streets, only a few cars. I was contemplating on stopping at that modern toilet block to wipe the dust off and change, but then I thought I need to stop to fuel up and clean the windscreen anyway and put it off until Glenrowan.
Rolled into the BP station at Glenrowan, took a while until I managed to clean the windscreen – it was full of bugs. Fuelled up, whipped most of the dirt off myself, changed, bought a Coke (didn’t have Coke for years, thought now is a good time) and got back onto the freeway. Spoke to Otto a few times, he kept checking on me – I could tell he was so ready to fall asleep. The roadworks on the Monash have slowed me down, but it wasn’t that bad, rolled into the garage at 12.38. Otto poured me a beer and went to bed, I had unpacking and washing to do. I was wrong, we were on the 7 am flight, not the 7.30 – so 4 am wake up was on the cards. I realised I had only slept about 5 hours over two nights.
All up, I loved the experience. This was new to me – sweeping for Trails +, Langfords to Hotham, getting to know Dan and some of the runners; meeting Marianne and her mates… I have such a respect for the people volunteering at these events – it’s just amazing.
Gear
I was testing this Lululemon top for long[er] runs – not a winner. It’s a bit tight on the ribs, causing a weird sense of tight muscles. Good for 5 km, but nothing over. Lululemon Fast and Free crop and socks; Salomon Speedcross 4 size 6.5 (they were taped with gear fix tape, not electrical tape as I told Doug and Dan on the way up Swindlers. I only realised when I was washing them – might need glasses permanently). All the good weather gear as listed on the Trails+ website.
Nutrition
Packed quarter sandwiches, gels (a few VFuel and a few Endura Cool Mint), Cliff blok shots, rice sushis (I mean there was nothing else in them, but rice) and rice-jam-peanut butter slices. I ended up carrying back some of them – pretty much forgot to eat and only realised when it was nearly too late. The stuff I picked up at the checkpoints felt good, though.
Originally I planned to go to the mountains and do Langfords Gap – Mt Hotham return (58 km). I was supposed to catch up with Paul somewhere on the trails there.
Last minute plan change resulted in me not being prepared for THIS run.
Woke up at 2.45 after a tossing-and-turning kinda night, only had one coffee (usually have a double and a single espresso), watched the uneventful sunrise on the way to the Prom. Before Fish Creek I had a near miss with a koala. Yes, ABS works as it’s supposed to. By the time I’ve reached for the phone to take a close up, the koala has waltzed into the bush. Showers on the way to Tidal River and as I started the watch. The camping was full, I’ve never been here before NYE.
I wasn’t in a rush – wanted to make the most of my last trip to the Prom this year. Gosh, I missed this place!!! It was a warm, humid morning. Had goose bumps as the cold rain drops were hitting my skin. Quite a few cars at Telegraph Saddle, but haven’t seen anyone there. At Windy Saddle there was a man fiddling with his pack and a boy wetting the bushes. His face was covered by the leaves, could see everything else, though. He ran sheepishly to his dad when I said hello.
Sealers Beach at high tide
Sealers Tk was quite dry, very few muddy patches to hop over and the board walk was nicely cleaned – thanks Parks Victoria!! Saw a tent and a bivvy at the start of the board walk, then a few hikers before reaching Sealers Cove. Thought I’d use the toilet there, but the smell as I opened the door was revolting, so I gave that a miss. Sealers was at high tide – I knew it, because I’ve checked the tides, but have never seen it like this before. There was blue bottle on the beach – no wonder no one is in the water. Took my shoes off and jogged a little until I saw a guy walking in the water… I was thinking maybe he is trying to avoid the deep bit… Then I saw someone in a Two Bays t-shirt and asked him if I could take a picture of him with the high tide. By the time he said yes, I pretty much took the shot. Then we started talking about the tide, Two Bays and stuff like that… in the mean time the other guy arrived, we introduced each other. Tim [Baldwin] already knew who I was (I was convinced he is Tim Woods… what a mistake!). Him and his brother Kingsley were about to head back to Tidal River.
Crossing Sealers Creek at high tide
We said goodbye and I headed into the above waist water, then turned around and asked Tim to take a photo, which he did. Thanks Tim!!
On the other side there was a lady and many kids. We had a quick chat while I was putting my shoes back, then I got going. The camp was full, I sloshed (wet pants and all) across and off on the track. Water was trickling down from my clothes, straight into my shoes… not sure how effective taking my shoes was.
I’ve bumped into many hikers on my way – won’t get into details. Some of them were nice, others were indifferent and just said “Hi”. I chatted with a few (the nice ones) – they kept popping up in the most unexpected places.
One of my favourite beaches
So far I’ve been eating every half hour – a biteful or two, not too much, just to keep my energy levels up. My plan was to carry 1 l of liquid (500 ml of water and 500 ml of sour cherry juice) until Refuge Cove and fuel up with water there, while trying to pace the sour cherry juice to last to the Lighthouse. When I finally got to Refuge Cove, the first thing I’ve noticed the 5 boats in the bay. “How good is that?!” – I thought. Then I saw a family with a dog on the beach… the sign clearly says no cats, dogs or firearms in the National Park. I thought what kind of example that man shows to his kids… at the camp ground I headed straight to the tap. There were lots of tents there and the smell of the toilets hit me from quite a distance. There was a young lady filling up her flask at the hardly trickling tap. I stood there with my 500 ml soft flask for a minute or two, then I turned around and headed back to the track. There was no way I’d spend 10 minutes there to fill up my flask. I was hoping I’ll find water at Lt Waterloo Camp. When I had reception I’d message Otto (that I am at x km and doing OK), then had a quick fb chat with Evgeni… didn’t move while this was happening so the thing sends.
I started to get worried about this whole water thing, because I was sipping on the sour cherry juice – which was very nice by the way – just not such a good idea, as I didn’t feel like eating anything. A bit like having a dessert before lunch.
Waterloo Bay from the Decision Rock
The tap at Lt Waterloo was dry. Saw people with yellow water in their plastic bottles, probably waiting for it to clean. I had two purifying tablets but the thought of filling the soft flask with that not-so-healthy-looking water and then drinking the chlorine tasting result somehow didn’t appeal. Of course, as a last resort, I’d do it.
I decided to have a dip at Waterloo Beach and that kept me positive and going. There was a group of youngsters playing cards when I got there, said hello, I took my shoes off and started jogging, eyeing a spot where I could stop for the dip. A couple was coming from the opposite direction, the girl was limping a little, her knee was bandaged. Asked her if she needed anything, maybe more bandage. She said she’s OK. Asked them where they are heading to – they said Refuge Cove and asked whether it was far and whether it was straight forward getting there. I assured them it’s not that far and the track is easy to find – they can’t get lost.
Then I took my clothes off and went for that long awaited dip. Water felt really good and I wished I could stay longer. Managed to delay the starting migraine with a bit of cold water on the back of my head, but I knew that’s not over, yet. Putting the already wet clothes onto wet skin was like trying to get into a wetsuit. Jogged nearly to the beach exit (gosh they need to fix that sign – can’t see it from the distance), changed socks, then turned to start the climb, when I saw a few kids taking pictures. Then the parents… they asked me how far the turnoff to Telegraph Tk is and if it’s easy to see.
Didn’t find the hike out that bad this time, perhaps because compared to the Alps this was not a big deal, but can’t say it was easy, either. I was really thirsty, had the sour cherry juice and the little vitamin juice from the Virgin lounge (150 ml??), still hoping I’ll find water in that creek I always filled up from. I was pretty much walking like a zombie. Could hear water flowing in the valley, but didn’t feel like bush bashing… then I finally got to that creek with plenty of water. Climbed down and somehow filled up the flask (a bit like doing push ups), had the half of it, then filled it up again. I decided to fill up everything at the Lighthouse and rather carry extra than run out of water again. Saw a few hikers with water bottles in their hand – told them to be careful with the water, there’s not much along the way.
The obligatory Lighthouse door touch
At the junction I saw a backpack on the ground. Its owner obviously didn’t want to lug it up to the Lighthouse. I soon saw him and chatted with him a bit about water – of course. He said that if the tap at Lt Waterloo is not working I could go further up and get water from there. He also said there is plenty at Roaring Meg (which I knew). I asked him which way he’s going, he said he’s heading to Moaring Reg and will camp there. We had a laugh. Told him I’ll probably catch up with him on the way there.
I promptly filled up the flask at the Lighthouse and had half on the spot, then headed to the toilet (after checking all the corners for snakes, of course). There was soap!!! How nice?! It was a strong, cold wind – had to put the Bonatti on, then I took the customary selfie at the door.
When I was about to go back to the tap, I saw a boy and thought I know him… fair enough Renata (the ranger lady) appeared and was really happy to see me as was I to see her. She greeted me like an old friend – it felt really good. Then asked me if I was OK. Told her not 100% and she asked if she could get me anything. Told her if she had anything fizzy, that would be great. She brought a blue Hydralite and a glass and mixed it for me – such a beautiful gesture!!! Then Sean appeared – the guy I saw at the Prom a few other times with his son. He is training for the Marathon des Sables. We had a chat, then I thanked them and said good bye and headed down.
I was getting warm and took the Bonatti off, then thought I MUST eat something and take two Panadols, otherwise the migraine will make it way harder than it already is. I somehow swallowed two bites of one of the sandwiches and had two tomatoes, then took the Panadols. The two hikers coming towards me didn’t know what was happening and looked at me very strangely.
I tripped many times and hit my toes today. There was a bit of cursing happening… realised the Sense Pro 2 is definitely not the best shoe for the Prom. Should’ve worn the Sense Pro Max for this – next time!!
Otto called me once I was on Telegraph Tk and back in Reception World. Told him what the situation is – can’t run but walk as fast as I can and not to worry.
Tried to jog, but every time I gave it a go, I felt nauseous, forcing me to speed walk instead. At Roaring Meg – there was plenty of water – saw the hiker I spoke to at the Lighthouse earlier. He just got there. He asked me about where I came from and where I am heading. When I told him he seemed shocked. Like others before, he asked if I do this in one day. Told him yes, and my best time is 10:17 and that’s not a big deal, others can do it in about 6 hours, I am a back of pack runner. Told him about the Prom Run and the other two distances – you never know!!
I was at about 46 kms when Otto rang again, worried because he lost the signal. Told him not to worry, still can’t run, but will walk as fast as I can.
The flies!!! Gosh, they are a nightmare!! Stopped at Half Way Hut (first time) and got some water in the flask I’ve been drinking from. It was rain water and a bit luke warm, so maybe the tap water from the Lighthouse is a better choice. At least it’s cleaner.
Don’t know how I did the sandy 4WD track to Oberon Bay – just wanted to get over it. At Oberon Bay, there were quite a few people on the beach – they looked at me strangely when I appeared, waving the flies away with my white triangle bandage. The beach brought on some more pain – the March flies!!! I hit a few, but two managed to bit me, so my arm is now not so pretty with the red marks… couldn’t wait to get out of there. It was low tide but had to step through the flowing creek, so sloshing was on the cards on the way up. 5.7 km to Tidal River!! Let’s do it!
I was hoping the big flies go away once I get off the beach… I was wrong. One of them kept following me until I hit it. I was also hoping for that thunderstorm – didn’t happen. Could see Lt Oberon Bay and was already dreading that climb out. Imagined the flies making it worse, too. I tripped a few times in those rocks and that really hurt. The crows were flying across kind of laughing at me.
At Lt Oberon Bay I thought I’d just go crazy, the flies were like in a horror movie. Sand got into my shoes, didn’t care, just stepped as fast as I could. When I got to the climb out, a couple was about to set their picnic basket and rug onto the rock, they were having a great time. They looked at me like I was some alien, didn’t even say hello. Once I was on the bridge, I took a deep breath and kept thinking of that beer… it should be cold enough. Imagined how I’d open it and pour it into the tall glass I brought with me… another 3.7 km to Tidal River (which felt like eternity).
Did the few climbs, grinding my teeth, then passed the track to Norman Point (300 m), then called Otto, told him I was nearly back at Tidal River. Looked over Norman Beach – people were walking leisurely, probably with full tummies. I honestly don’t know how I did that 1.3 km from the beach to the car, all I remember is that I could smell steak, juicy steak and I wished I could have a bite; then I had to let two cars pass at the pedestrian crossing – they didn’t think it would be nice to let that crazy woman pass.
First things first: opened the boot, then the car. Got the house key out (there is a bottle opener on it), got the tall glass out of the kitchen towel (it was nice and cool from the ice pack), then opened the beer and poured it into the glass just like I imagined all the way from the Lighthouse. Had a big sip, then two smaller ones. Then put my gear down, took the shoes off, grabbed my stuff and went to have a shower. Forgot to stop the watch – only realised in the shower.
Then hobbled back to the car, tried to reach Lucinda and Steven, but facebook was overloaded, couldn’t post anything and couldn’t message. I drove around a bit, looking for their caravan; couldn’t see it and I was afraid I’d run over the kids playing on the road, so I headed home.
Food and drink
Toasted sandwich quarters (two bites each, really) some with butter, cheese salami and sliced cornichons, others with Philadelphia mashed with cornichons and salted capers and turkey breast. Packed grape tomatoes with them. I think I had 8 of these mini sandwiches (and tomatoes), but only had 3-4
VFuel gel – had one salted caramel apple
Clif Blok Shots – packed about 12 pieces, but only had about 6
Chocolate and ginger
500 ml Sour Cherry Juice
150 ml Fly Healthy (??) Vitamin Juice
Water – not sure how much I had all up, was sweating a lot. Carried the bladder and the tube in the pack to fill it up at the Lighthouse and thought refilling the soft flasks will get me there. Not on a hot day!!!
Gear
Didn’t take all the mandatory gear with me this time – had the Bonatti, a head torch, the PLB, snake bandage, other first aid stuff (first time I had the Panadol). Used the Bonatti at the Lighthouse – it’s always windy and cold
Usual Lululemon gear
Salomon Sense Pro 2 – the Sense Pro Max would’ve been a wiser choice here. I’ve noticed at Alpine Challenge that I wasn’t tripping that much in them
Salomon agile 250 belt – perfect for carrying gels, blok shots and the like
Triangle bandage – seems like that is an essential item in the summer, too
Picked up Tay [Alireza] at 1 PM. We stopped for fuel, then again in Bright for pizza and beer. By the time we arrived to the Cope Hut parking it was around quarter past 7. Geared up and started the long journey after taking a few pics at the trail head. Tay took the lead with an easy jog and I could feel that the pizza is going to take revenge if I keep this pace, so I asked her to let’s just walk.
The sunset was absolutely stunning on the High Plains and it was quite warm. Got to the SEC Hut while I told her about my 10 km detour in 2015 Alpine Challenge 60 km. I suggested to check the hut out. It was small with a heater in one of the corners and the floor had a hole in the middle. There were other things in there, as well, but these were the two items that stood out for me. We couldn’t completely open the door, it was stuck. Outside, next to the door, there was a box with a note in it. We took a few pics then turned towards Pole 333. This is so much different to doing it in pitch dark!! It was only three weeks ago I was painfully hopping over and into puddles, tripping in rocks on this track. Those blisters are still there, only not hurting that bad [yet].
At Pole 333
I was looking forward to seeing brumbies – and saw one. Took a picture, but very hard to make the horse out on it – it was too far away. At Pole 333 we took a few more pics, put the lights on and turned left towards Cobungra Gap. It was getting darker and the view of the pole line with the sun setting behind was just amazing. We could see lights to the left and figured it must be some people at Youngs Hut. Had to take one layer off, it was too warm.
Once we were heading down and leaving the High Plains behind, the scenery and the trail changed. Not only because we were limited to what the Ay Ups projected in front of us, but the grass, the little bugs, flowers – everything was different. There were these cockroaches that were probably mating – it was a funny sight for some very long kms. Tay rolled her ankle a little, but said she thinks she’ll be OK. We swapped places, I went first – this way she could better calculate her steps and I could see the trail for myself as I would if I was doing it alone during Alpine Challenge miler. All of the sudden, I saw a pair of red shiny dots in the dark. It was a deer! We must have scared poor animal with our head lights. It took off in a hurry. At this point, the sign at Pole 333 about deer management made sense… even though none of us agreed with it.
Sunset on the AAWT – was better in reality
When we got to Cobungra Gap, Tay said she could hear voices… we listened, then turned left towards the camp site, chatting away, when we heard some noises. Realised there was a tent there, so we started whispering. Why wake up the hikers? Then further down, towards the river there were more tents. The grass was wet, by this time my shoes were pretty soaked, even without stepping into water. After we crossed the bridge, I filled my soft flasks with the cool Cobungra River water, then we passed Dibbins Hut and headed up Swindlers Spur.
Swindlers Spur!!! It was hard going up, but not as hard as in the heat at Razorback. I was making a point of eating something about each half an hour and so far I was succeeding at it. The clouds were gone and the sky lit up with its shiny stars and a piece of the moon. We could also see the lights of Hotham Heights and some more on our far right. It was an interesting game guessing where they are coming from.
We got to Derricks Hut, where we could also see tents and worried we’d woke their citizens up. There was loud snoring coming from one of them and we gave checking out the water tap a miss and kept going. We’ve been chatting for most of the time, sharing stories and experiences. A long hike/run like this is one of the best ways to get to know someone. Also, very therapeutic.
The sign on Machinery Spur
At the Machinery Spur turnoff we didn’t read the signs correctly and headed into the opposite direction. I mean, it was strange going towards Blairs Hut and Dibbins Hut, but that was the only sign that mentioned Machinery Spur. I haven’t done this bit in the dark, yet and I am 100% in daylight would’ve picked the right way (as I did 3 times before). So there we were, heading down the wrong way, passing Mt Loch when I said something’s not right, the track should be different. Can’t recall that much grass on it and we should have seen the chair lift by now. Checked the Avenza map and sure as hell we were going the wrong way! Turned around and hiked back to the intersection. Said hi to Mt Loch summit again.
This is the sign we missed
I had a closer look at the sign(s). Behind the one that actually says “Machinery Spur” – there is another pole with more signs, with the one on the top “Loch Car Park 2.7 km”. This little detour cost us about 4 km and 55 mins. Once back on the track we headed towards Loch Car Park, passing the chair lifts and Race Start Hut. By the time we got to the car park, the visible half of the moon was so big and shiny, I couldn’t help myself and took a few shots – they are not good for publishing, though. There were lots of cars parked there, probably the people sleeping in those tents at Derricks Hut… We had the mandarin I’ve carried with me – it was really good, but standing still we got cold quickly, so we left towards the Mt Hotham track.
At the Mt Hotham summit
I thought the hike up to Mt Hotham would be a pain in the butt without the little orange/pink flags Paul lines the track for us in races, but going up to the top is quite easy to follow, then we had to check the pdf map a couple of times. At the summit, we took a few selfies – which is funny in the dark, because the flash really blinds you, while you do all the funny, concentrating faces – then we headed down towards Diamantina Hut, agreeing that whatever kms appear on the signs is a big lie. The distances are always longer than what is written there.
At Diamantina Hut, we noticed another tent, just behind the building. I’ve never seen what it is like inside, even though I passed this hut several times, so we checked it out. It’s a relatively big open space inside with a heater in the middle. Tay noticed backpacks in there, then we checked out the plaque erected for Eric Johnson Gravbröt and headed down to the road. There were lots of cars parked there, hopefully we didn’t wake up anyone sleeping in them. The Razorback Trail head is kinda hidden, but we knew which way to go. This was the first time I approached the Bon Accord Spur from this side and wasn’t prepared for those little uphills before the turnoff. I thought we’d never get there!!
I was both looking forward and dreading Bon Accord Spur. I’ve done it in daylight and found it not much fun, as I was constantly vary of snakes. There was no such danger at night, but anything round I stepped on sent me a few cms down the track and gave me a bit of a shock – just like when tripping, same feeling. I was happy I was carrying poles, gave me a bit of an insurance. The millions of bugs our head lamps attracted have started to drive us nuts. Tay decided to stay a bit further back to avoid them a little. Not sure how this went, but she was stepping very carefully. We didn’t talk much on this portion, I felt tired and sleepy and was probably walking like a drunk – thanks for the poles, I kept the balance somehow.
Crossing Washington Creek
At around 4 I’ve noticed the sky started to lighten a bit, mentioned this to Tay. Washington Creek should be close, we could hear the water flowing for a while, even though it seemed we were so much higher… When we got to the creek, I filled my soft flasks, we put our head torches away, then looked for a spot to cross the creek at. Tay did the scouting, really. We looked at the least dangerous part, as the water was flowing rapidly in front of us and wondered “what would Celesta do?!” I’ve noticed how beautiful the stones were – lovely colours!! Then Tay just went for it, carefully stepping through the fast flowing water, balancing with the poles on both sides. As soon as she was getting out of the water I realised, I should’ve taken at least a shot of that.
I went next, with Tay cheering and taking pictures. The water was cold, but it felt really good. I could imagine those pesky blisters…
Looking forward to that coffee
Once we were out we started climbing with Tay recalling her sweeper time at Razorback this year. We passed a hole on the left and wondered what that could be… a mine?! Good place to hide a body! Grrrrr!!! Funnily, there were no rails on pretty dangerous corners on this portion, but there were further up. The sun was rising and I was feeling really tired. We agreed to check out if there is any coffee spot open in Harrietville.
So glad we did, because after the coffee (and a Capi juice for me) at Morries (?) we were like refurbished. Otto called to see how we were going – he’s been tracking us all night.
Quick toilet stop, we took the wet and muddy overpants and the extra layer off and headed towards the Bungalow Spur trail head, discussing Pokemon and FIFA 2018 games and saying hello to the early riser citizens of Harrietville. Beautiful sunny morning, promising a hot day ahead (which we weren’t looking so much forward to – especially on the climbs). Getting closer to the trail head, we noticed how many cars were parked there – this must mean a lot of people at the top. Tay has signed us into the book and we started the climb, happily chatting away in the fresh morning air.
Tay on Bungalow Spur
We saw a man coming down, he must have just went for a little stroll, didn’t have any equipment with him. We said hello and went on, without meeting a soul for a few kms. Then the school groups started coming down, with some very well mannered boys saying hello and stepping out of our way. We exchanged a few words with them and thanked them. Then more and more hikers were descending, the majority very nice. We had to climb over a few fallen trees. Everyone we told what we were doing seemed very impressed. Most of them thought we are only going up to Mt Feathertop.
As we were getting closer, it was getting warmer and we were really happy every time a little breeze hit our face for a few moments. An elderly man said “only about a half an hour” – I said to Tay “no way! We should be there much earlier” – turned out he was right! We passed the Old Federation Hut ruins, then saw the sign with the water spring. Thought this is a good time to check this out. Tay opted for a rest while I headed down to the spring. The water was flowing (after the rains earlier, it made sense) rapidly and it was nice and cool. I’ve filled in both flasks, thought I’d give one to Tay, as Kiewa Valley wasn’t (didn’t seem) that far away and wetted my triangle bandage. She said she’s got plenty of water, so I encouraged her to at least cool herself down with it, which she did, pouring some into her cap.
At Federation Hut
The flies started to be nasty as we passed Federation Hut. A family of four was there, clearly struggling with them. We told them where we are heading to Cope Hut, where we were coming from. Every time I tell people about these things, I always think that one day someone will get inspired and go for it, too. We agreed earlier, that we won’t go up to the summit (we’ve made that detour – it was enough), and that seemed like a very wise decision, especially from that point looking up to the summit.
We took a few pics at the hut, then a few more with the Razorback – majestic view!! At the Cross, there was a couple in the shade of the tree. The guy was sitting down on the grass and told us he is recharging. Tay was wondering how far the Diamantina turnoff is… I’ve pointed it out ahead. It seemed very far and it was getting warmer… it seemed Tay was very excited about getting down on Diamantina Spur and into the West Kiewa Valley. I couldn’t recall Diamantina being this rolling and with that many uphills, but being tired probably had something to do with it. The flies and the ants on top of the heat made it very difficult and so much harder than it already was. The ants would rush up your feet and bite you if you stepped onto their nest (fair enough, who can blame poor bastards?!) so it was a real quest keeping them off AND waving the aggressive flies away.
The majestic Razorback
We saw some people on the next hill top, Tay asked if that’s still Diamantina. Yes, it was and Westons was somewhere far far away on the other side of the valley. I could smell aftershave on the way up that hill. When we got to those people, the woman was doing something with her pack and the guy was wearing a hat with the net in front of his face. He had knee-high gaters, as well. He asked me if I had a hat. I told him I don’t (I only had a beanie, which wasn’t practical to wear right then). Then he went on to ask whether we’ve done this before. I told him, yes, this is not the first time. Nice of him – concerned citizen. We told him where we are going and from where – then he understood.
Tay was really looking forward to Kiewa Valley, carefully stepping on the uneven surface. We’ve bumped into a school group. Mostly girls with huge packs. Went pass them as they told us that is dangerous down there and there are the teachers helping others. We had to wait a little while the girls were helped down the steep rocks by the teachers. They (the teachers) were very nice, keeping the troops happy and together, helping them along the way. The male teacher was so funny – he offered his hand to Tay and asked her if he could have a dance. He held my poles so I could use my hands for a grip on the rocks.
Just turned onto Westons
From there, it was a struggle going down; we could hear the water, yet it seemed so far away. Tay kept asking “can you see the water?!” – and I thought I could, but then it proved I wasn’t. I looped back a few times, didn’t want to get too far away from Tay, but I couldn’t stand in one spot either, because the ants would be straight on my legs and feet. The first sight of the dirt road was a huge relief. I clearly remembered from previous years doing Razorback, that Blairs Hut was on the right hand side and if one missed the turn at the big tree, could just keep going until the Westons turnoff.
We’ve filled the flasks, took our shoes off at the river, stood a bit in the water, wetted my triangle bandage, then looked at our feet being cooked. The huge blister on my left big toe has popped and now had that skin just there. Wasn’t a pretty sight. There was some logging happening in the area, things seemed different. Blairs Hut was on the left. Things like this drive me nuts!! We checked the map – just in case – and thought we might have had to cross towards Blairs, but then I said we should just keep going on this road and turn left further down. There was a sign not far away that pointed towards Westons (2 kms – yeah, right!!!). We turned left, then there was another turnoff towards Blairs to the left. We kept straight on the hike on the dirt road.
The flies were killing us
We hiked slowly, me speeding up when the ants attacked, calling them names and wearing the triangle bandage over my head, covering my face to keep the stupid flies out of my eyes, nose and mouth. This, of course meant I couldn’t see too well, so I stepped on things I would’ve avoided otherwise. The springs we passed were a great refresher, then finally we got to Westons Hut, hiding to the right. Tay couldn’t be bothered checking it out. I went behind it to double check if it was any water tap, but there wasn’t. I knew there must be a spring or a pipe somewhere further up.
The heat, the flies and the ants!!! On top of the fatigue and blisters!! I had the advantage of doing Alpine Challenge a few weeks earlier, but Tay hasn’t done any hard core training since Tor des Geants, when she damaged her quads and had to recover from that. This was her first outing since September. At least we weren’t running, we took it slower. We both had blisters, but I’ve already gone through at AC what Tay was putting up with now. I really felt for her.
I was hoping that as soon as we get out of the tree line and onto the High Plains, the ants would go away. Yeah, there were more rare up there because of the grass. I decided to step into every puddle from there, until I sank into a black mud… I have to be more selective about which puddle I step into, otherwise it’ll take forever to clean my toe nails! Tay seemed a bit relieved that we are getting closer to Pole 333. Pointed her out which way we are going and told her from that point, there are about another 50 m to the pole. At least this hike was a bit more lenient. Otto messaged me, asking how long do we have to go. Replied to him we are close to Pole 333, but the message didn’t send as there was no reception.
When I plotted this route, Strava wouldn’t let me go along Westons, but forced a straight line for about the last two kms. I calculated the times based on my worst performances, thinking if I was doing this as part of the miler, I would be pretty buggered and probably not going fast. I picked Cope Hut parking because that was along the road – Otto mentioned (later) why didn’t we go from Pretty Valley Pondage, it would’ve been much closer. He was right, but I’ve never driven to Pretty Valley Pondage and I know that’s not as straight forward as it seems. Anyway, based on my calculations, we should’ve finished in about 16 hrs. When I told this to Otto, he said bullshit – more like 22 hrs!!! And he was – again – right!! We ended up doing it in 23:02:30 with 22:39:43 moving time.
Back to Otto’s message… “yeah… 16 hours, right?!”
At Pole 333
We stopped for a minute at Pole 333, like it was a monument. I guess in the eyes of many people it actually is! Just like Decision Rock at the Prom. Took a few pics then headed towards Cope Hut. The sign said 8 km, which we were really shocked about – thought it would be maybe 4???!!! In that stage and state I am not surprised. There was something white on the horizon and Tay asked if that was the SEC Hut. I assured her it was, when in fact it was a tree!!! How much worse it could get?! The sun was burning us, I have been covering my shoulders for a while, since the skin has peeled after Alpine Challenge and I didn’t want it to get burned again. 33°C!!! And those flies!!!
The pole line (that Tay was very happy about at the beginning, because they were like insurance we are going in the right direction) now seemed like an endless path – it was going on forever. Tay said maybe she should have brought some band aids with her, that might help with the blisters… me – head slap!!! I’ve got bandages!! Why didn’t I think of that earlier?! Pulled out the Primapores (they stick better than the Bandaids), while Tay sat down on the ground and took her shoes off. She stuck them on, then we were on the way. We kept putting one foot in front of the other and eventually saw the red roof. What a joy!!
That was torture
Another 3.5 km on an easy terrain and we are back at the car. Tay was anxious because she couldn’t see the road, then she couldn’t see the car… then she saw a cyclist (on the road), which was a relief. The pole line seemed to go forever!! Checked the map how far we could be from finishing… we were about half way between the SEC Hut and the parking. Tay tried shuffling – it seemed more painful on the blisters, than just walking, so we were back to walking.
When we finally got to the trail head, we took a few pictures while the flies were driving us nuts, then went to the car and changed. Tay had some chips (gosh, these feel good at a time like this!) and Coke (enhanced with coffee) and I had a few sips of the Razorback Wheat beer. We talked about beer A LOT along these 78.58 kms. We decided to go straight (not turn towards Bright), have pizza in the Swiss bakery and get some beer from the local Sweetwater Brewery.
The finish
When we pulled over in Tawonga South just after the bakery, getting out of the car was a bit of a struggle, but we both managed the short walk into the shop. The shop owner was smiling from a mile!! Had to tell him why this is happening – he was still smiling. Then he took our order – Tay had a veggie burger and I had a Margherita pizza. To save time and energy, I had a ginger beer instead of a Sweetwater – I still needed to drive home… I couldn’t eat the whole pizza, took away the last two pieces. Put them next to the other piece from Bright and thought how good this will taste tomorrow morning…
Spoke to Otto a few times, he was really worried about me driving after that night. I kept telling him I’ll be OK – I got this. We did a toilet stop at Myrtleford, then a fuel stop closer to Melbourne. Tay was naggered, as much as she tried to stay awake and keep talking to me, she fell asleep. Otto insisted we talk every hour. Poor guy, was up all night following us on the map and now surely tired, falling asleep but worried about how I make it home. When we were getting closer to the city, there came the roadworks!! Dropped Tay off, then headed home, facing some more roadworks along the way.
Got home at 1:40. I’ve let Otto know, so he can finally go to sleep, too, then had the remaining beer (it was pisswarm), the three slices of pizza, while unpacking, and stuffing a load into the washing machine. Had to hand wash the pack and the jacket, leaving the shoes and the socks to soak (they will really stink by the time I’ll get home next Friday!!). Had a shower, set the alarm to 4:00 and went to sleep. The 1:45 hrs felt like 5 mins when the alarm went off at 4. Packed, washed my hair and took off to the airport… loooong day ahead!!
All up, so glad we did this – saw the course in the dark, been on my feet for another 24+ hrs and got the opportunity to know another lovely human!
Food
Two quarter toasted sandwiches with butter, cheese and salami accompanied by grape tomatoes
Lots of Mountain Berry Blok shots
1 piece of dark chocolate – I carried more, but didn’t feel like eating it, especially after they melted
Rice with peanut butter rolled in nori sheet – about 6-8 pieces
Rice with smoked trout and Philly (with baby cucumbers and capers) rolled into nori sheet – about 4-6 pieces
Rice with peanut butter and home made strawberry jam – about 4 pieces
1 mandarine – we shared
250 ml of sour cherry juice – finished it by the time we reached Mt Hotham
Water – not sure how much, but I tried to stay hydrated. 250 ml of tap- and the rest creek water
Gear
Usual Alpine running safety gear
Lululemon crop, top and socks
Salomon lined jacket, carried the Bonatti in the pack
Salomon Sense Pro 2
PLB
Really missed the briefing this year. It’s a great show, I hope Paul is going to put it back on the program.
Otto told me he can’t make it as support this year – so the crew was like this: poor Nelu and Ani (tired since Europe) in Harrietville and Suzie at Langfords and Pretty Valley. Suzie couldn’t leave Melbourne earlier, so I organised some food to Warby Corner – Christian Day was really kind to offer.
I’ve seen Ben at Spine Consultants for a quick check up, then headed to Falls Creek with a few stops in between – Bright Brewery was one of them. Bought a pizza and two six packs, then smelled the pizza for an hour and bit until I finally checked into the room and wolfed down two slices on the spot.
It was nice to see Jacqui’s smile at the Country Club Hotel, then Carole’s at registration. John, who did the gear check told me he’s sorry he can’t get me a cold beer to Pole 333 – he remembered from Razorback, where he manned the checkpoint in March.
A bunch of us on Spion Kopje
Missed out on the first Q & A session, so waited a bit for the second. In his usual low key style, Paul gave us a quick run-down about the course and what to expect, then after a few questions people went to mind their business. I guess I was the last one to go to bed that night – at 10:30 still packing my food and posting on facebook about a spare Ay Up battery/charger (forgot the charger at home). Thank you George Mihalakellis for offering.
When the alarm went off at 3 AM, I suddenly didn’t know where I was. This is what sleeping in several places does to you! Made the coffee, had a few bites, a shower, got dressed and headed to the start line with Jacqui and Darren, then Celesta and Adrian caught up with us. In the starting chute I saw Gabor (we took a selfie), met Kate Sanderson (such a lovely lady!!) and said hello to a few more runners around me. Paul said something about a storm (??), but we couldn’t hear well at the back, so just waited for the countdown and off we went. I was glad the watch started the LiveTrack properly, so there was no need to fiddle with it as I did last year. The weather was just perfect for running. I was hoping we’ll get some rain along the day…
Frank – we did the whole Spion Kopje together
Ran between Celesta and Todd [Freestone] until Junction Spur, chatting away. I ran with Todd at Lysterfield a few times, with the group before. I stopped the head torch, there was enough light to run safely on that track. Overtook a few people, then I was overtaken by others. The steep part was still steep, then on Spion Kopje Tk I saw two guys, one of them taking his top off. I told them “I didn’t order a pole dancer!!” and we all laughed.
This year I decided I’ll save time and won’t take off my shoes at the water crossings. I bought a pair of Salomon Sense Pro Max, the specs said high breathability – I thought I’ll be good. Took a pair of spare socks with me, just in case and planned to put them on around Cleve Cole. Crossed Rocky Valley Creek, the water was nice and cool, but that sloshing after?!!!… pain in the ears! As I started climbing, I’ve passed a few people, then again was passed by others, until someone shows up next to me and said he’s the pole dancer. That was so funny!! Great sense of humour! That was Frank [van Haren]. We kept talking and found many common things apart from trail running. Stopped for pictures every now and then and managed to get to Warby in record time (for me).
Velta took this awesome shot just before Warby Corner
Velta was taking pictures just before Warby – awesome shots!! Checked in, grabbed my food, had a piece of banana and Otto rang to congratulate me on how well I was doing, as he could see me on the map. That was such a nice thing!! Told Frank that I’ll have to stop at Ropers, so he continued with his friend, Sean. I caught up with Tamyka and Stephanie – Tamyka wasn’t feeling that well, but she said she’ll be all right. At Ropers, I did a toilet stop, then went on. Didn’t rush down on Duane Spur as last year. I bumped into Ian (sorry don’t know his surname), who was checking his phone and map. Told him he can’t get lost here, there is only one track all the way to Big River. I passed a happy couple, exchanged a few words. They caught up with me at the crossing, then swiftly passed me on the hike. Especially the lady was going so strong, I was amazed.
On T-Spur – it was getting hotter and hotter
Last year I pushed too fast on T Spur, trying to keep up with Lesley and Ryan [Noreiks], but now I decided to save my energy – it’s going to be a looooong day. The sloshing started to make me think this is not a good idea – need to put those dry sock on, otherwise it will be blisters later… so I looked for a tree across the track. Dunno who put it there, but it looked like it was especially for me. Sat down and changed the socks. In the mean time Tamyka and Steph caught up and passed (there was a lot of this during the day and night) – Tamyka even making a remark about changing socks being a good idea before it becomes an issue. Then I bumped into Thomas, trying to fabricate some poles from sticks. Told him about the trail head at Mt Donna Buang and the poles that line up for everyone to take.
It started to get warm, the ants were nuts, running up my feet and legs every time I stopped or slowed down. The flies weren’t pleasant, either. I have taken Gabor’s advice and ate every half an hour. A little something, but I ate. This seemed as a great strategy – it was working, but I was really looking forward to the cold water at Madison Creek. When I got there, Tamyka and Steph were already filling up/getting ready to fill up, chatting away cheerfully. I filled up my soft flask, too and wetted my triangle bandage. I am sure I’ve taken Tamyka’s spot – sorry Tamyka!! They took off and I went, too. They were using the run/walk strategy and got to Cleve Cole a few minutes earlier.
As I was approaching the check point, a SAAR volunteer was coming from the opposite direction. He asked me if I saw an injured runner. Told him I only saw Ian behind me and he wasn’t injured when I spoke to him.
The track towards Mt Bogong
Tamyka, Steph and Thomas were already at the checkpoint, the SAAR lady nursing Thomas’ blisters. I hoped there would be some fruit, but there was none. The milk chocolate and sweets didn’t appeal, so I added an electrolyte to one of my soft flasks – it was grape!!! My favourite!! I found out it was Ian, who was the injured runner – he has rolled his ankle on the way down Duane Spur. How sad?! Then after a toilet break I continued up to Mt Bogong. It was getting warmer and warmer. Remembered one of the SAAR volunteers at the checkpoint telling me that it will be a nice breeze at the top… I was so looking forward to that. Could see the girls in front and Thomas not that far behind me. Then some hikers heading up to the cairn at Mt Bogong.
That track is as painful as the one going to Pole 333 – uneven and full of rocks! At the cairn we took some photos. Me of the tourists, then they of me, then I took a few shots of Thomas. He shot off with great energy, which I was amazed by. I called Paul and asked about Celesta. I was really worried about her and pissed at myself for forgetting to ask at Cleve Cole. Paul said as far as he knows Celesta wasn’t feeling well from Nepal, but she didn’t pull out or anything. That was good news; that she was OK.
At Mt Bogong Summit
Saw two hikers coming down, laughing, said hello. Not far, I bumped into Thomas sitting on the ground. Asked him if he was ok, he said yes, but he needs to wait until the skin dries so he can stick the tape back before he continues. Further up I saw Tamyka and Steph, tightening their laces for the downhill.
Saw some snow close to the track, thought I’d touch it, at least. Looked a bit dirty, but I scraped the top and there was the clean, icy snow. Thought it would be a great idea to fill the cloth with it and cool down my neck, skin, face, back of my head… glad I did that, it kept me cool for a couple of kms. The sole of my feet started to make themselves known – this was something new for me. Never had blisters from running. The only big blister I scored before was from a beautiful hot pink shoe in Sydney… Damn!!! I should’ve taken those shoes off at the water crossings!!! Somehow I knew from the beginning I’d be doing this to myself!
On Quartz Spur – love those outcrops
Made it down to Big River Fire Tk. I filled my flasks at the pipe, cooled my neck and washed my face in the fresh, cold water. Felt awesome! I kept looking up the track, thought the girls or Thomas would’ve caught up with me by this time… Then I continued my journey on the grassy trail down to Big River crossing. I didn’t remember this track being this beautiful.
I started to run out of food that I was happy to eat. The Bloks got a bit too much, but still the only thing that felt good at that time, maybe because they were a bit sour. I’ve packed some bite size rice with peanut butter wrapped into nori sheet – that didn’t go down well in that heat. It was perfect when we were in cold and rain with Suzie, but in the warm weather it was just sticky and hard to swallow. Same with the rice, jam and peanut butter. Brought them back all!! Didn’t feel like anything sweet – the chocolate was melting in my pack and the dates were too dry to eat (bought these beautiful Bateel Medjool Dates in Doha). I only had a half of the quarter sandwiches I’ve packed – the one with cream cheese, capers, pickles, smoked salmon and grape tomatoes, but again the heat interfered with eating the last bit.
Thought I should treat that water, I had some Micropur tablets with me. Stopped in a corner and added a pastille to both 500 ml flasks, while drinking from the small flask that I was carrying in my hand. When I got to Big River, I could hear and see more runners. Tariq was lying on the ground, I went close to him and asked if he was OK. He signaled, he is, just taking a rest. I went to fill up my small flask and wet the triangle bandage at the nearby stream, then crossed the water, worrying about wetting my phone (should’ve taken it out from the thigh pocket for this crossing). On the other side there was James and Freya, getting ready to get going and I think two more runners… not sure. I said hello and told them how great they were doing, then kept going.
James and Freya were the first to pass me, Freya switched to high speed. I thought “how good is to be young and strong?!”, then Thomas and Tamyka and Steph. Could see Thomas was struggling, we yo-yoed each other for a few more times. It was warm. Could see the clouds gathering and I was hoping there will be at least a tiny rain to cool us down a little and make this never ending climb a bit more bearable and exciting.
I started to feel the lack of nutrition, then even the sips of water weren’t feeling good. Especially since the purifying tablets made the contents of the flasks taste like Melbourne tap water. I was thinking of last year… that I was pretty much in the same state here, except I knew I have support at Warby… this time no support until Langfords. Let’s hope there is some watermelon at the Warby checkpoint.
And this is when Suzie rang, letting me know she has arrived and she’s got beer!! She asked me how I was, so I told her that I can’t eat or drink and running out of juice. She said she’ll be waiting for me at Langfords. Then she rang back and said she’ll bring me beer to Warby. I was run/walking to that point, then I realised we won’t get there at the same time, it will take her longer, so I slowed down a bit. Saw Tamyka and Steph ahead and thought “Gee, I can’t recall this uphill being this steep?!” – it’s not even steep, just looks like it from that angle and from that state (both physical and mental). I could see the tent at Warby… on the top of the hill.
Someone is very serious
Got to the checkpoint, Graham was clapping and saying encouraging words – love this guy!! – then asked me what I would like, offering all the goodies available. It was so touching. Told him my daughter will bring me beer here, he wasn’t too impressed by that and said at least have a piece of water melon, which I did, and later on I regretted not having more of that. Everyone was so nice at that checkpoint, would love to give them a huge hug. The lady was knitting and another volunteer cooking in the front of the tent. I asked Graham if it’s Ok if I get that beer along the track, instead of waiting for Suzie to get here. He said of course it, OK, so I took off, speed walking, thinking of that beer…
Family reunion on Big River Fire Tk
Saw a group of hikers coming, when Suzie rang, asking me how far I was because she can’t see me. Told her I must be behind the hill. Then she called me again, we spotted each other (she was wearing white, so it wasn’t hard) and started walking faster… when I was getting closer, I was thinking… “how come Suzie is walking next to that older guy?! She is not that fond of meeting new people”… looked at her smiling pretty face first, then realised the person next to her was Otto!!! What a surprise!!!! I was really happy to see them both, but knowing he was there gave me a piece of mind – he is the BOSS OF ORGANISING! He knows what to do and what to say…
We took a few pictures, Otto opened a bottle of Bright amber ale with a stone, cutting his finger in the process… I had a few sips, about half the bottle and then instantly felt better, even though watermelon and beer???!!! There is a joke about that. Otto started the reasoning why I should only do the 100 km: your feet are hurting, you haven’t done it before (not working…), Ani and Nelu can get a proper sleep, they are tired (OK, that’s a good one), Suzie can drive back tomorrow, so Nelu doesn’t have to take her car (that’s a better one), I (Otto) need some rest (fair enough, the guy is on his toes for months and burning the candle at both ends) and then the last one – we can all have a decent lunch at Bright Brewery and celebrate your birthday in some way.
Because that’s why I signed up for the miler – I turned 50 a few days earlier and thought it’s a great way to celebrate.
I said to him, I’ll think about it until Langfords. Suzie said “if you want to do it, do it! This is why we came here for and I’ll be there at Pretty Valley to do the last stage with you”. At Marum Pt Tk we said good bye, big hugs and I took off on the single trail while they started running toward Watchbed Ck.
It would be so nice to run this track with fresh feet!!! Beautiful single track, but for me at that time it was a pain in the sole of my feet. Big one! I realised there must be a blister on my left big toe, another one on the sole just under the big toe and the next and one each on the inner and outer parts of my heels… I also thought about the track from Cope Saddle Hut to Fainters… how painful that was last year in the dark and so much water on the track…
I could see the foot marks of the people who ran there before me. I was wondering how fast they were going? Did they have sore feet like me?! …then I got to the little bridge. Love that crossing! I knew I must be getting close to Langfords, I only need to go around a few corners.
The white dots are hail pebbles
Last year I did this bit with Nelu, checking nearly every pole, looking at the map in the dark. As I was getting close to the corner with the pond, Otto calls me asking how far I was and said they’ll start coming towards me. Then the hail started, hitting my head through the hood and my face. One piece hit the tip of my nose – that was unfair!!! It hurt! Took a few shots, it was beautiful. I thought I should call them and tell them to stay, it’s hailing, but then I better stepped on it. This time it didn’t feel that long and I started jogging as I was approaching the check point. They were waiting there, with an umbrella!!
I told the volunteer at the check point that I am switching to the 100 km. He asked me if I was sure. Told him I am positive. Tamyka and Steph were already there, opening their drop bags. The guy told me to go change, do whatever I need to do and then come back. I went, changed shoes – gosh my feet looked like I have spent the day in the pool, all white and wrinkled – put my overpants on, got the Ay Up out, had another few sips of beer, then watermelon at the check point. Again, I should’ve had some more or taken some with me, as eating become a real problem. I’ve been going for 20 odd kms without proper nutrition. At least I could get some more Bloks – at least those worked and I also got a quarter sandwich (with butter, cheese, salami and grape tomatoes).
Went back to the checkpoint tent and told the man I was definitely cutting back to 100 kms, then headed off. It was raining, a few more people were going back into it, James and Freya were two of those, Freya speed walking like a daemon, James worried that she doesn’t know where she’s going. My total admiration for this girl!! I just kept putting one foot in front of the other, trying to avoid the puddles and hissing and cursing every now and then, as those blisters started to yell at me.
Pulled out the phone at some point to see how far I was from Cope Hut – it seemed like it takes too long, but the map assured me I wasn’t far away. Before reaching Cope Hut, I passed James and Freya again, then finally got to the road. Crossed it and looked for that sign that used to be on the other side… well Parks Vic must have changed it, all the writing was saying was, that the Australian Alpine Walking Trak is that way. Shrugged my shoulders and headed on, feeling each and every pebble under my feet. I was waiting for the rubber bit… didn’t come until later. I could see the light going on and then off at the check point in the distance. Gosh, how many poles?! 168?! That’s about 8.3 km and the worse comes later, after I pass Cope Saddle Hut… checked the Avenza map again, didn’t seem that far. I said so many ouches and some swear words along those kilometers.
As I was approaching Cope Saddle Hut, I could hear voices… looked back and saw two head lights. Must have been James and Freya. The bit between Cope Saddle Hut (with its beautiful red roof) and Pole 333 really hurt. I was walking like a drunk person on that uneven terrain with its sharp rocks and water puddles. Couldn’t eat or drink and could feel my energy levels going low. Nevertheless, I pushed on, walking as fast as I could. Every now and then silently swearing of course.
The sky lit up with the moon and shiny stars, it was a pretty sight. At some point I thought I saw someone with a head light coming from the left (Mt Jim), but then nothing. Only a fox with its eyes in the dark… yayyy!!! There was another creature out there, not only me. Then I could see lights heading to the left towards Youngs Tk – the milers!!! Brave people, probably also hurting, maybe not that bad as me. Gosh, that checkpoint felt like miles away! When I finally reached it, checked in, assured the man I have already let someone know about the downgrade. He offered me chips and snakes; I took a pinch of chips, but could hardly eat them. He told me which way to go. I thanked him, then I said I know, last year I missed the turn – learned my lesson.
The bit between Pole 333 and Fainters seemed like the hardest stage of my journey to that point. Those blisters hurt so badly that I could cry. I just swore instead and put on the gloves, as it was getting really cold – just like last year… I had to fiddle with the gloves a little as I made the mistake of clipping them together, but then it felt good once I put them on.
When I finally got to the Fainters turnoff I saw the car the volunteer told me about and promptly turned right toward Pretty Valley. Checked the pdf map just to make sure. A 4WD appeared on the road, strong lights. When it got in line with me, it stopped and I realised it was full of SAAR people, the ones I’ve seen at Warby. One of them even told me how great I was doing. In all hat pain I asked him “compared to what?!” – he said they saw me at Warby, then he said there is a bit of a hill, then all the way down Pretty Valley. I thanked them for all their help then kept on going, trying to avoid the rocks and the puddles. Didn’t always work.
Otto and Suzie called, asking me how far I was. Told them I just got onto Fainters, there must be about 3 kms to get there. They said they were coming to Pretty Valley. Surely a few minutes (or so it seemed to me) they called again. It was a pain in the butt taking off the gloves every time, risking freezing fingers, but I know they meant well. Told Otto I could see them, then shook my head so he can see which one I was (he said he could see three lights and wanted to know which one is mine). He laughed and said they are waiting for me at the check point. Those rocks!!! Each and one of them!!! Ouch!!!
1:11 am at Pretty Valley Pondage
When I got nearby, I got some big hugs! That was so worth it! Then Otto asked what I wanted, so he can get it ready while I checked in. I said I’d like some of that sour cherry juice. Had some and asked him to fill one of my soft flasks with it. If there was any watermelon at the check point I would have had some, but wasn’t sure I could eat oranges at that point. Suzie was ready to go, all cheerful and happy. This is someone who trains hard with weights, doesn’t run and is normally fast asleep at that time of the night.
The little climb up from Pretty Valley seemed like a mountain at that point, the rocks still not going away. When we were not talking, all you could hear is the swishing of the overpants. At the camp Otto was waiting – we started calling him “tha Stalker” – just making sure we are OK. A car was heading the pond way, the driver asked if he was going in the right direction. We told him yes, he was. Must have been someone’s support – no other person in their complete mind would have been driving there at that time. We could see lights moving up and down Mt McKay, at least we knew how far we needed to go.
I was watching this young, strong woman – my daughter. She made it look like walking up the hill way after midnight, all geared up, supporting her crazy mum was the most natural thing in the world. And I was so proud!!! We haven’t done anything together since she moved out about 6 years ago and now here we are second time in a week doing this crazy shit that makes me tick. She still has the little girl charm I always loved about her, but now she is a real tough cookie, as well. My total admiration.
As we were going up Mt McKay, runners were coming down, didn’t look up so I won’t blind them and ended up calling Todd – Sean… we had a laugh, wished each other all the best then went on. I thought we’ll never get to the top! Suzie checked out the snow. It was dirty, but it was snow. We talked about how different is now, compared to when we were here last time. At least is not raining… at the shelter we took a few shots after Suzie closed the door. Someone must have left it open. As we were coming down on that rocky road, we realised there were two runners going on the side, in the grass… Suzie asked if they were cutting it short, when we realised the orange markers there. It was us, who missed the course – well, we made the most of it, going around instead.
Each and every little rock, pebble and maybe sand hurt my feet at that point. Everything else was ok, but the soles. When we got to the bottom and about to cross the road, someone on the left greeted us – it was Paul, doing the sweeping. Tamyka and Steph (they were the two runners going to the shelter earlier) passed us and nearly went on the road, when Paul told them he’ll disqualify them if they won’t take the marked path across the shrubs. They laughed and went on chatting away cheerfully. Suzie and I followed path, looking for the markers. My Ay Up started to fade. I should’ve been disappointed in that highly regarded torch, but I knew very well it was my mistake not fully charging it before I left.
Yep – we finished it
After a while the girls (Tamyka and Steph) disappeared, we were wondering if they took the wrong turn… because it looked as they were heading to the right, and I knew we’d need to go left after this trail. Suzie mentioned that this is indeed a pain in the ass – this track. It’s so uneven! Finally we got onto the Pretty Valley Rd so I could “enjoy” the rocks a little bit more.
As we were walking and talking, wondering how long we’ve got to go, Suzie held my hand. I thought that’s nice! We haven’t done that in ages!! Then she went on and asked whether I saw any animals on my way. Told her I only saw birds and a fox. And ants and lizards. Nothing else. Then she asked if I wasn’t scared alone, in the dark. Told her there is nothing to be afraid of. You are there in nature, not many people come this far. She said she would be shitting herself. “Really?!” – I asked. Then she “Why do you think I am holding your hand?!” – if I wasn’t hurting that much I would’ve pissed myself laughing. It was so funny!! Then we went on to talk about horror movies and what we were scared of when alone at home.
At the finish line
She has recognised some points we’ve passed when we came here the other week and we realised we must be close to The Last Hoot. Sure there was the sign to the left and onto the grass. That grass bit… gosh it was hurting!! Uneven and curly. I didn’t remember it this long from last year. We were looking for the finish line lights, when we could hear some “Whoo hoo!!” – recognised Otto’s voice. Made sure we ran into the chute and were greeted by a volunteer and Otto. The clock was showing 23.01. Big hugs, pictures, then off to the final check point. I showed my number, handed in the PLB and kindly asked the gentleman to put the medal around my neck. He took it out the plastic bag and did, remarking that I surely deserve to have it hung around my neck.
I thanked him, said hello to Todd, Tamyka and Steph, then headed out. Wanted to walk to the hotel, but Suzie thought I was nuts, so I got into the car, then had a shower, a beer and went to bed. I was really scared not to break the blisters in my sleep, it would have stained the bed linen. We woke up around 10.30?? called Nelu to see what we are going to do. We decided to catch up with them in Bright at the brewery for lunch, then drive back, pack up and drive home, while Suzie and them to drive home straight from Bright.
The bling was the license to wobble
Had a great time at the Brewery. I asked for the ribs. I was hungry. And the matching beer. But I couldn’t eat even half of it + 2 slices of pizza. Celesta came by and we talked about how it went. She told me she pulled out at Warby 2 – she didn’t have her heart in it. This is impressive, going that far with a chest infection.
While we were there, a band was setting up. It would have been nice to stay there a little longer, but we had to break it up. We said good bye in the parking lot and Ani, Nelu and Suzie headed towards Melbourne, while Otto and I back to Falls Creek. We went to HQ to check out how everyone is going: someone just finished. I congratulated him and asked how he went. He said he just finished. Dan [Beard] was on the phone, would’ve loved to congratulate him. Paul thought it was a wise decision to change distance, then there was Jacqui, who did the same because of her hips. We had a little chat, checked out the chart, then headed off bumping into Carol on our way. Big hug from her.
And the boys!
At the end of the day I have done what I should’ve done a year ago 🙂 finish the 100 km in a decent time 23:01. I didn’t get what I really wanted – the miler – but I had a great time with my family, the runners on the course and the volunteers. I am eternally grateful for everything they’ve done for me. Even if it was a nod. It all counts.
Gear
Lululemon top and crop – top was old, the crop relatively new, but it worked, I’ll keep doing long distances in this. I like the thigh pocket, I can put the phone in it, keeping it at hand. Miss the back zippered pocket, though. None of them gave me a chafe.
Lululemon socks – might need to swap them for newer ones
Salomon Sense Pro Max shoes from start to Langfords – they are not that breathable as they claim to be. The Sense Mantras I first had were more reliable in this department.
Langfords to finish – Asics Fuji Trabucco – these are really good but not for this occasion. I mean running/walking with blisters. I’ve got many kms in them and their soles are quite thin.
Bonatti jacket – they were perfect to keep the rain away, but I was a tad cold when the temperatures got low. If I have put on the thermals, it would’ve been the best combination, just couldn’t be bothered.
Waterproof pants – Rainbird??? Something from Anaconda. Very cheap and effective. Worked a charm in those scratchy bushy areas.
Salomon S-Lab Advanced Skin 3 12 set hydration pack with 2 x 500 ml and 1 x 125 ml soft flasks. I had the 1.5 l bladder with me until Langfords, but never used it. Carried it for backup.
XTM gloves
Thermals – polypropylene
PLB and heat pack as supplied by RW
Food
Toasted quarter sandwiches – butter, cheese, Revilla salami and grape tomatoes; philly, capers, pickled cucumber (in a paste) with whiskey cured Huon salmon and grape tomatoes – not sure exactly how many I had. Maybe 4-5??
Chocolate – had very little, maybe 2- 3 pieces. With crystallised ginger twice
Date – ½ it was too dry
Mandarins – had about 6
Mountain Berry Bloks – lots of them. They were a bit sour, which was perfect for me at the time
VFuel Gel – 1 and a bit. Didn’t go down well on Timms Spur
Rice with peanut butter and home made strawberry jam – 2 pieces. Couldn’t handle them
Rice with peanut butter in nori sheets – 1 small ball. Couldn’t have any more
Watermelon – from checkpoints
Chips – very little from checkpoint
Beer – about ¾ bottle all up
Sour cherry juice – about 500 ml
Electrolyte – 125 ml home made (boiled potatoes, carrots, celery, parsnips, turnips) and 1 tablet of
Fizz Grape
Map
Total distance: 101.4 km Max elevation: 1979 m Min elevation: 892 m Total climbing: 4094 m Total descent: -4079 m Total time: 23:01:33
I was itching to do this run for a while, it always sounded like a real badass outing, but was cautioned by my good friend Vicky [McPherson] to not go there alone… that warning was nearly three years ago. I thought, since I’ve got some experience under my belt and Thomas [Martin] made it look so simple and easy with his photos on Facebook, it’s time I tackled it. Thomas couldn’t accompany me because he was working but happily agreed to be my safety contact for the day. I am eternally grateful for that!
So I packed up my gear, dropped Otto off at work in Smithfield and headed out to the Blue Mountains. Saw the traffic in the opposite direction… like the Monash inbound in peak hour.
Beautiful day!! I was really looking forward to this adventure, full of excitement of the unknown and the difficult nature of the course. Parked the rental at the old Queen Victoria Hospital, geared up and headed out, for the first time taking a better look at the old buildings. It’s all downhill to Kedumba River on Kedumba Valley Rd, a slightly rocky forest road. I went down on it and back a couple of years ago, when I followed the course of the Kedumba Half Marathon. If it wasn’t for the views, it would be a pretty boring run.
I soon crossed the gate, entering the Blue Mountains National Park and joining Kedumba Pass. I remembered the gates with the swine pictogram and the warning, and how scared I was back then, constantly checking trees to climb on should one of those feral pigs charge at me. I worked it out, though – those gates are there to keep the feral pigs OUT, so there shouldn’t be any once I am on this side of the fence. Good logic, eh?!
Saw lyrebirds, tried to take pictures, but they disappear so fast, it’s all blurry. The sign at the park entrance said 3.4 km to the Mt Solitary Tk, the course description says 4 km from start… I clearly remembered a sign on the left hand side pointing towards that track from years ago when I passed a place that looked like the turnoff. There was a sign that said “Sublime Point Trail”. Looked around but couldn’t see anything that said “Mt Solitary”. I kept going, but then felt that something is really not OK, when Otto rang – he asked me why I didn’t turn right. He was following me on Strava Beacon. Told him that I am aware of what happened, and turning back now – that’s an extra 3 km.
When I got back to the point where I should’ve turned, I had a better look around and noticed a very worn sign that was nailed to a tree, high enough for a short person like me to not see it. I took pictures for the future, then headed down to the intersection where Mt Solitary Tk and Sublime Point Tk meet. The single trail that follows is just plain running pleasure! I was having serious fun, when Paul rang – ended up a run-phone-meeting. Told him where I was and what I was about to do – he told me to be careful there.
Soon I reached the river. Crossed it with my shoes on, then started to look for the track on the other side. Well, it seemed like it doesn’t exist. Went back and forth a few times, up and down… saw some weird spots – like the ones are inhabited by someone. That was a bit scary right then and there. I’ve spent about 15 minutes here, until I finally found the track.
The course is pretty much uphill from there. The notes are this: “After crossing the river, runners will make an arduous 3 km ascent to the eastern col of Mt. Solitary (11 km). This ascent is tough with the elevation change being in the region of 650 m over the 3 kms.” – they are spot on!! There were points where I thought I’ll roll back if I don’t lean forward. Passed the Kedumba kemping area and continued up-up-up and up in the forest. It was getting quite warm, too. Every now and then I looked back and took a picture of how steep it is. The track is mostly dirt with roots and rocks and it sometimes has two branches: one steep and straight, the other one a bit switch-backy.
As I was climbing, I’ve noticed something strange… it moved. I realised it was a goanna and it was sunbathing on a tree trunk. I asked him (nicely) to please move away so I can pass, which he did, posing for a few pictures in the mean time. At around the 13 km mark I reached a flat portion, which seemed like a camping area. The track looked like is going to the right, but also to the left… I walked around looking for it, thinking “backtrack, now show me what you can do!” – it is quite useless when you do lines like a crazy EEG. I decided to go higher grounds and see if I can spot the track, so I climbed a big rock. Wasn’t any wiser when I got back, but I thought I’d just follow my instincts and finally got back onto the track.
When I reached the col, I looked for the book Thomas told me to sign. All I saw is a metal sign saying it’s ‘Mt Solitary 919 metres “The Col”’ and an explanation of what Mt Solitary is for the Aboriginal people. Tried to message him, but there was no reception, so I took a few pictures of the amazing views of Kedumba Valley, Korrowall Ridge, Cedar Valley and soaked in the sights thinking who knows when I’ll get here next. I was really happy to be there!
Once I was on my way, a flat portion allowed for a bit of running. This is what the course description says “After reaching the col, runners will continue to climb to the high point of Mt Solitary (950 m). Runners will traverse the top of Mt. Solitary which is a glorious mix of single trail, with some rock climbing.”
In the mean time Thomas managed to call me and told me the book is in the metal box and that I’ll need to come back another time and make sure I put my name in it. He also made sure I was OK, which is very nice of him. There were spots facing North, where there were beautiful views of Jamison Valley. I took some great shots.
This passage was a tad tight
Continued the climbing, then started the descent. I could hear voices with German accent and realised in these 4:15 hrs and 17.3 kms I have not seen a human soul!! Scrambling down the Korrowall Knife Edge is not for the faint hearted and in hindsight I should have not gone there alone. At least not for the first time. There were places where a person with a bigger built wouldn’t have been able to get through (in my opinion).
Got to Cedar Gap, the point where I ran once when I came to do the Ruined Castle out and back from the Golden Stairs. I clearly remember the sign giving me a definite sense of “this is the point where you need to back off”. The trail is nice and rolling here, going mainly downhill. I was running out of water and whatever I had left was good to make a nice cup of tea. So I was very happy to see the water tank on the right. Went down the few stairs, filled my storages, then thought I’d better check out that toilet… well, it was one of the cleanest toilets I’ve seen on the trails, with lots of toilet paper rolls!!!
The warning sign I’ve seen when I approached from the other side
Once back on the track, I ran-walked most of the remaining distance, passing the stairs to the Ruined Castle, chatting with a young French couple, then two Asian youngsters. Funnily, parts of this track have vividly stuck in my memory when I first ran it. Could be because I was looking out for snakes back then, but frankly little corners, stones, roots, trees – just like it was yesterday. I soon reached the Golden Stairs and was happy I don’t need to climb them today.
What followed was (just like the Mt Solitary Track) virgin territory for me – never been past this point. The track was technical with lots of roots and some stones, but it was in the forest, which meant that it was a little cool in the heat of the day and all up it was a pleasant place to run. I’ve passed the tunnel, which the course describes as this “Keep a lookout for little known ‘Rennies Tunnel’ about 1 km north of Golden Stairs. This tunnel was used in the 19th century to remove shale from Megalong Valley (yes you can still go through the tunnel for a shortcut between the two valleys, but that is for another day). “.
After this portion, lots of rocks – the course description talks about ‘The Landslide’ or ‘Dogface Buttress’. Looking to the right, I could see Mt Solitary. Hard to believe not that long ago I was up there scrambling down rocks…
I’ve made some quick calculations. If I keep going back to Kedumba Tk and up to the car, I risk running out of food and water and even worse – I won’t make it back in time to pick Otto up from work (he is pretty flexible with the hours but I didn’t think he’d like to work until 8-9 PM). I thought I’d be done in about 7-7:30 hrs (the Mt Solitary Ultra official cutoff is 7 hrs I think). So the plan was this: I’ll go up the Furber Steps to Scenic World, have a beer, catch the train or a taxi back to Wentworth Falls, then drive to Smithfield.
There were lots of tourists around the Scenic Skyway, I tried to get through as quick as possible followed by some strange looks. Once I hit Furber Steps I started to understand why people curse it, hate it, are scared of it – it’s very steep!! Your quads and calves start burning pretty early on. I’ve stopped a few times to take pictures or let others pass in the narrower parts. Tourists are not all nice. At the last outlook, I could hardly breathe, still said hello to the ladies hanging there, just to get the sock of no reply. It was a bitter pill to swallow.
Took a few more steps and had one of the runners’ worst nightmares – a cramp that made me hunch over the hand rail, not able to move and in a pain that I’ve never experienced before. A couple passed me, asked me if I was OK. Told them it’s a cramp, will survive and thanked them for asking. Once I felt a little normal, I started walking slowly towards the road, checked the sign and headed in the Scenic World’s direction. I was so looking forward to that beer… in fact I imagined buying TWO!!
No comment
So glad I had this $20 note with me (learned from the Dom Dom – Warburton trip) – stood in line and checked out the offer… the guy looked at me strangely when I asked for two beers (can’t remember what exactly was, but I know it was a local beer) and kindly asked him to open them, too. Sat down at a table in the sun, marveling at the sight of the Three Sisters, and people watching the tourists around me, while they looked at this weird dirty woman with two bottles of beer. The first one went down so fast, I am sure I had a brain freeze when I finished it. I actually enjoyed the second one, then put the bottles into the recycling bin and headed to the Explorer Bus stop, checked out when the next one arrives and chatted to the American couple waiting there.
The Clock
There were still 10 more minutes to wait, so I went for a look around, took pictures of the clock and didn’t notice the bus. By the time I realised it was there, it already took off… Great!!! Now what?! Went into the shop and asked about a taxi. The shop assistant was both shocked and amazed by my story and organised a taxi for me.
Taxi driver was a tad surprised by the whole thing, but swiftly drove me to where I parked. Paid him, said good bye then I cleaned up and changed into the dry clothes I’ve brought and headed to Smithfield. Poor Otto had to stay back a little, but he was OK.
I was a little disappointed with not closing the loop, but this was a good training and adventure on its own. I am writing this report six months later so recalling what I exactly ate is a bit fuzzy.
Started from the BBQ area on Dammans Rd near Martyr Rd – it’s very handy, there is a toilet block on the other side of the road with potable water. It was a beautiful, sunny day; bit chilly so I got into schwung up on Martyr Rd which warmed me up in no time. The lady walking her two dogs coming from the opposite direction looked at me strangely.
People are nice – they’ve left sticks at the trail head for those who didn’t bring poles. I had mines – would never leave up this track without them. I was dreading the mud, but didn’t think it would be this much and this thick. Many times I took one step ahead and slipped two back; you could tell there were others who slipped there, too. It lasted about 3 kms and a bit, then it got a bit better. Still lots of deer foot prints at O’Shannassy Aqueduct crossing. That always makes me wonder where they might be…
I wasn’t in a rush, wanted to get to Boobyalla Saddle (at least) or to the Dom Dom Saddle turnoff a few kms further up and back. Could hear the lyrebirds and cockatoos, but didn’t see them. At about 4 kms into the trip (around 1000 m elevation) I’ve noticed something white where the fern tree’s leaves meet – it was snow!! Johnny Gee was right! He warned me about snow on Mt Donna Buang the day before. I took a few pics and kept going. More and more patches and I just couldn’t resist, had to take some more pictures.
Finally got to the Mt Donna Buang Road crossing. I always know when I am getting closer – can hear the creek flowing. There was snow on both sides of the road; not too much, but it was. Took some more pics, for good measure, then crossed the road and headed up the fire track towards Mt Victoria. Even more snow!! More pics… I saw a lyre bird, but when I got closer, it ran off into the bush. I stopped on the side of the road to put the Bonatti on. I knew it’s going to get cooler towards the top.
As I was approaching Mt Victoria, I could hear voices and some machinery – must be some works at the tower… as it turned out, that was the case. Two guys working – one on the ground, checking with the one on the tower – and three more standing by, checking their phones. Took some more pictures here, the snow was thicker and completely covered the ground, then kept going, saying hello to the one working (the rest didn’t care).
Mt Victoria Trak
It was so beautiful and the snow was nice and soft in places. The kind of snow you can make a snowman from. About half way between Mt Victoria and Mt Donna Buang I took some more pics and a video. Wanted to capture the moment – can’t see snow every day, especially not this close to Narre Warren. I started to feel that the left shoe is hurting my ankle – no good, still a long way from coming back…
When I was getting close to Mt Donna Buang, I could hear noises. It’s usually very silent here during the week, but today it was a beautiful day with snow!! Grandparents took their grandkids for tobogganing and Asian tourist with sophisticated cameras were doing what Asian tourists do. There was a truck close to the toilets, pumping the shit, which then validated the smell I could feel on the way up. I said hello to those guys as I was walking towards the lookout. Climbed up, took some photos, said hello to the two people up there, then headed down. The track towards Mt Dom Dom looked awesome from up there!
Hmm… it makes sense..
Before heading down, took some more pics. I should stop mentioning this, it’s getting boring, but the truth is, I took about 80 odd pics on this trip. Running down that slope (people have been tobogganing on it earlier, based on the marks in the snow) was so much fun! I could do that all day. The sign that says “Warning do not go past this point in winter” was obviously ignored by many people based on the footmarks in the snow.
That’s the thing about out and backs – the awesome downhills are spoiled by the thought of having to climb back on return. That’s why I prefer loops, but here it’s not feasible, I checked.
The timber crossing at Cement Creek was covered by snow. As I was approaching, I thought “Ohhh… I won’t get sucked into slipping again!”, but the snow was kinda buffering the slippery surface, so I decided to give it a go and managed without falling. I was pretty impressed with myself then! On the way up to Mt Boobyalla, I was thinking that the overpants I’m carrying in my pack would be very useful in avoiding all the scratched to my legs, but then I thought I’ll just pull them out if absolutely necessary. Weather can change and it can get very cold and that’s when I’ll really need them. By this time my shoes were nice and clean (well, relatively) – all the mud I collected on the way up to Mt Donna Buang was gone, but my feet were wet. Sloshing wet!
Mt Boobyalla
When I got to Mt Boobyalla I thought, I’ll better keep moving, will go to the cairn on my way back. The downhill was awesome until the last steep descent onto Road 4. That was a bit hairy. Slipped a few times there. At the intersection I looked around – quite a different view from the other time I’ve been here, then headed left towards Boobyalla Saddle. At the Road 7 and Road 4 intersection I had a look at the “Unauthorised entry prohibited” sign and thought I have no intention whatsoever to head down that road right now – they can keep it for themselves! – then turned right and jogged a bit to Boobyalla Saddle. My watch beeped the 14 km mark. Took a few pics, then turned around.
Funny thing about these out and backs is, that you get to follow your own footsteps on the way back. It’s a reassuring feeling. Only Speedcross marks in the snow were mine, so that wasn’t so hard to discern. There were some not so friendly clouds ahead, but when I looked back, I could see blue sky. I was hoping I wasn’t heading into a rain or snow storm.
Now it looks quite different
Climbing back up that short section after the Mt Donna Buang turnoff was not exactly a piece of cake. It was steep and slippery. Not sure how I would’ve managed without the poles. Couldn’t wait to get to Mt Boobyalla, because I knew there would be some downhill after. When I got to the summit, I went around the cairn, and thought about that scene in “A Good Year” when they do the victory dance after the tennis match… The downhill wasn’t as much fun as I anticipated because of the scratching bushes along the narrow track. My legs were burning by now and my feet were kinda cold with all the sloshing. Not the chilly kind of cold, when you can’t feel your toes, but wasn’t warm, either.
At Cement Creek, I took it for granted that I won’t slip, so I promptly hit my leg when it slipped under the next timber. Dropped an f-bomb as one would in such a case. Climbing back on that hill to Mt Donna Buang was harder than I anticipated. As I was getting closer, I saw a snowman, then another one. This latter, even had a carrot nose. I thought I’d take a pic as I get closer. When I next looked, the carrot was gone (I thought I was seeing things), so I got closer to find out, the carrot fell out. Like a good citizen would do, I went there to put it back, but the damn thing kept falling out. Didn’t matter which end, the hole was icy, didn’t hold it anymore, so I put it next to the snowman, thinking that I would really love to eat that carrot.
Those were scratchy
Headed down towards Mt Victoria and suddenly heard noises. Saw an elderly couple struggling on the slope. Asked them if they were okay and if they needed help. They didn’t need any help, were so happy to see snow – they were from Western Australia. Found out the lady was Dutch and the man was Italian. He hasn’t seen snow since his twenties… we had a little chat, then wished all the best and I bolted down, enjoying the downhill in the snow. Thing is, running in the snow is pretty much like shuffling in the sand – very inefficient on the flat and uphill, but downhill is so much fun!!
The track to Mt Victoria was sloshy, as more people have walked it during the day. Wasn’t as much fun as on the way here and those low ferns have really scratched my legs now. At Mt Victoria the boys were still at work. Waved them and kept running to be startled by a dead deer just a few meters down the track. I hopped about a meter to the right (it was on the left side of the track), had a quick second look and kept going wondering how could I miss it on the way here… I can usually pick up some speed (well, compared to the rest of the trip) here, until I reach the road. There were cars coming down from Mt Donna Buang.
I’ve been eating quite a lot on this trip and I was sorry I didn’t bring my usual quarter sandwiches. The cold makes you hungry. I still had some chocolate, crystallized ginger and a VFuel gel – consumed everything else. Had plenty of water, only drank about 500 ml.
So much mud…
For a km or so the downhill was okay. I mean my legs still got strangled in wet and muddy bark, expecting to fall any moment, but I knew the hard and yucky bit was still to come. And come it did! Sticky, thick black mud, sometimes deeper than ankle height. I didn’t feel like flying down today, just wanted to avoid landing on my bum; managed for a while, but at some point I inevitably fell. Not really on my bum, but on my back, hitting the ribs on the left side. I lied there for a few moments until I could stand up propping the poles into the ground. Then I had to stand a little until I managed to breathe properly. I used that time to take a couple of mud shots… This downhill is very taxing on both the body and the mind, especially if you want to do it fast.
Couldn’t wait to get to Martyr Road. Once there I admired the beautiful flowers and the blooming trees. Couldn’t feel their aroma, because there was smoke coming from the chimneys, but the sight itself was worth it. Made me forget about all that mud for a little while. When I was back at the car, I got the dry clothes and shoes and headed to the toilet block to scrub up and change. It makes a huge difference driving home like that. I also had the few mouthfuls of steak I brought with me and really craved a beer. I thought I should just walk into the pub on the opposite side of the road and have one.
Took a while to clean these
All up it was a beautiful day, the snow was such a bonus. If I did it again, I’d take less pics and make it to the Dom Dom Saddle turnoff.
Food: two mandarins, a Nice & Natural roasted nut bar (choc apricot flavour) which gets a bit hard to manage when it’s nearly frozen; dark mint chocolate, crystallized ginger, an Endura Cool Mint gel (weird feeling when it’s a bit luke warm, but it does feel cool once you had it), Mocha Cliff gel (very sticky, but I like the flavour – if VFuel had something similar, it would be a winning combo). I left the VFuel last and didn’t end up having it.
Gear: I left in a Salomon lightweight jacket and took the Bonatti and the waterproof over pants with me. Didn’t use the over pants, but the thicker jacket would’ve been a better option.
The track is steep, tricky and very technical down to Waterloo Bay Nth, but before reaching the beach there is a spot where one is presented with some of the most brilliant colours nature can produce. It’s only a small patch of the turquoise water powerfully contrasting the dark greens and browns of the trees. David shot ahead on the fun-run downhill, so I was hoping he’ll notice it. And he sure did. Furthermore, as I was turning a corner, I’ve realised he is sitting off the track waiting for me with the phone ready. He managed to take one of the best shots I have on these trails, with the previous beach as background.
